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Nusa Penida: Diving with Mola Mola, the Ocean Sunfish

2/10/2018

5 Comments

 
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Nusa Penida is one of the best places in the world to dive with Mola Mola, or Ocean Sunfish as it’s also known. That is exactly why we chose to visit for my birthday.

A large and still undiscovered island 30 minutes from Bali, Indonesia, Nusa Penida had been on our scuba diving bucket list ever since we were in Lembongan 18 months before.

Although there are many things to do on Nusa Penida, it’s a destination where divers have a chance of seeing two of the oceans giants; the weird fish Mola Mola and majestic Manta Ray. To see both has the potential for an amazing adventure.

But what is so fascinating about the elusive Mola Mola? Related to the pufferfish and triggerfish, the moonfish or headfish is the largest bony fish in the world. Its unusual shape makes it look like a floating head with wings.

However, Mola Mola and Manta Ray sightings are never guaranteed, nothing in nature is. Would we be successful in our quest of seeing the strangest looking fish in the ocean AND the most graceful? 

Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Nusa Penida is off the coast of Bali, Indonesia. It may be the biggest of the three Nusa Islands, but it has less tourists
Where is Nusa Penida?

Nusa Penida is one of three islands between Bali and Lombok in Indonesia, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan make up the trio. At 200sq km, Nusa Penida is significantly larger than its neighbours however tourists have only just started to appreciate its unspoilt, rugged natural beauty.

From the south of Bali, the 20km journey takes 30-45 minutes by fast boat. Due to its close proximity to Bali, Nusa Penida is predominantly Hindu but Muslims also live here
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Boat journey to Manta Point Dive Site
Nusa Penida diving conditions – what you need to know

As long as you manage your expectations when scuba diving Nusa Penida, you shouldn’t be disappointed. Nusa Penida has deep-water trenches and nutrient-rich waters which attract many beautiful marine creatures, making it a year round diving destination. As most people dive here for Mola Mola and Manta Ray, dive sites during “high season” can be quite busy, so consider choosing another time of year for seeing the other cool stuff.

Mola Mola Season: Although Manta Rays (reclassified as Mobula Rays in 2017), can be seen all year round, Mola Mola season is July – November. However, as with all things in nature, marine life will do what it wants not adhering to “seasons” or “best times”. 

I know people who have seen Mola Mola in December and April, but were unlucky during August. This is not the fault of any dive centre, marine life will do as it pleases, whether or not the conditions are perfect for them or not.

Cold water: If you want to see Mola Mola, they like to hang out in cooler temperatures, so if you see or feel a thermocline, fingers crossed Mola Mola are nearby. For the best chance of seeing Mola Mola, expect anything between 20 -25°c.
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Currents: Manta Rays and Mola Mola like currents, so be prepared to dive in these conditions. The currents around Nusa Penida can be strong and unpredictable, plus there are down currents to be aware of.

If you are an inexperienced diver, have little to no experience of currents, or are unsure of what to do, take a Drift Adventure or Drift Diving Speciality course prior to your trip, or just to brush up on your knowledge. 


Swells: Around Manta Bay and Crystal Bay there can be high sea swells. If the swell is more than two metres, most reputable and safety conscious dive centres will not travel here. This isn't for your inconvenience, its just too dangerous in a small dive boat.
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Safety is of paramount importance when diving in currents, so always ensure you dive currents with a reputable dive centre such as Scuba Junkie who we dived with. A good dive centre will tell you what to do in a current, and will not take you if a) they don’t think the conditions are safe and b) you would not be able to handle the currents. Our Dive Master briefed us on what to do before the dive, he also had a reef hook should it be needed.

Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Map of Penida showing all the surrounding dive sites
uDive sites to see Mola Mola: Crystal Bay is considered THE place to dive for the Mola Mola so is naturally the most popular, however it is also known to have the most challenging conditions not recommended for novice divers. The Mola Mola ascend from the deep using shallower waters as a cleaning station by bannerfish. 

The good news is that Mola Mola can be seen at many of Nusa Penida’s 20+ dives sites around the island. Gamat Bay, Ceningan Wall, Manta Bay and Manta Point are all along the same channel as Crystal Bay. They can also be seen all along the north coast at Toyapakeh, PED, Sental. We saw the shadow of a Mola Mola at Buyuk, but it swam away when a nearby dive group started tapping with their tank banger.
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Enough of the introduction, let me show you what you can see when scuba diving Nusa Penida.

Dive site: Manta Bay

Did we see Mantas at Manta Bay? Oh yes we did! Two days later, a group dived with around 50 mantas at this same dive site.
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Scorpion Fish
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Robe Hem Hypselodoris Nudibranch
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Day Octopus hiding
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Blue Spotted Stingray
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Cleaner Shrimp
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Another Day Octopus out for a walk
Dive Site: Crystal Bay

Did Crystal Bay deliver, and did we see Mola Mola? Sy did, sadly, I felt the water was just too cold for me after the first dive so stayed on the boat. This is my biggest diving regret to-date.
A Mola Mola swam up from the deep, breached the surface flapping its fins like wings, then crashed back into the ocean swimming away. Sy watched this activity, hoping that I saw it as well. Alas, I never. Like I said, my biggest diving regret!
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Mola Mola heading for the surface ready to breach
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
The Mola Mola crashed back into the ocean, swimming away into the depths
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Mola Mola AND Nemo in the same dive site? Surely this makes for a great day's diving!
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Fire Dart Fish
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Anna's Chromodoris Nudibranch

​Dive sites across the North: Buyuk, PMG and SD

At Buyak just after we dropped in, we saw the shadow of a Mola Mola and it looked like it was swimming towards us. We swam to get a closer look, but alas another group were nearby using their tank banger and it swam off. After this initial sighting, we hung out in the blue feeling the thermacline, hoping he would return again.
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Spotted Porcelain Crab
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Orangutan Crab
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Turtles; always a crowd pleaser!
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
A Nudibranch and Flatworm next to each other
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Another beautiful Anna's Chromodoris Nudibranch
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
A Comet Fish
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Black Spotted Pufferfish hiding in soft coral
Picture
Hermit Crab

​Ceningan Wall and Gamat Bay
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Green Nembrotha Nudibranch
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Bamboo Shark at Ceningan Wall
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia

​Mola Mola facts
​​
  • Mola is Latin for “millstone” which is apparently what the fish resembles due to its grey colour, rounded shape and rough texture.
  • The largest oceanfish weighed 2.5 tonnes, the equivalent to an SUV.
  • Molas can dive to deep depths of 487 metres (1,600 feet).
  • They travel great distances, one tagged Mola Mola recorded 1,609 km (1,100 miles) in three months.
  • After making deep dives in cold water, the Mola Mola often surfaces and appears to sunbathe in order to regulate its body temperature.
  • Mola Mola’s are classified as “vulnerable to extinction”, as its greatest threat is bycatching. An estimated 340,000 were caught in a single year in a South African fishery. 
  • Females can produce as many as 300 million tiny eggs per clutch.

Nusa Penida Travel and Visa Information

  • Language – Balinese is the official language, however English is understood and spoken. Bahasa Indonesian is also generally understood.
  • Currency – Indonesian Rupiah, £1 = 18,000 IDR
  • Wi-Fi – Available in most places; scuba diving centres, hotels, bars and restaurants
  • Climate – Tropical with two seasons; Wet/Monsoon is October to April, Dry is April to October
  • ATM’s – There are two ATM's that accept Western cards on Nusa Penida. One is near Toyapakeh Harbour, the other is at Sampalan Harbour.
  • Visa -  A 30 day visa is given at the time of arrival in Indonesia (not for all countries, check with your embassy).
  • Driving - Left side of the road
  • Airport – Nusa Penida's nearest airport is in Bali, Ngurah Rai International Airport.
  • Religion – Predominantly Hindu, but also Muslim. 
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Scuba Junkie Penida owners Dani and Matt, plus excellent Dive Master Raine
Who are Scuba Junkie?

Scuba Junkie opened in Nusa Penida July 2018, however we have stayed with them in various locations since October 2014. An award winning dive centre, many of their locations are Green Fins registered, which means they are in the list of “most environmentally friendly dive and snorkel operations in the world” (two of their centres are in the top 10). They are a leader in conservation both above and below the water, their Mabul resort has an amazing turtle hatchery.

Malaysian Borneo: Kota Kinabulu, Semporna, Mabul
Indonesian Borneo: Sangalaki
Indonesia: Komodo and Nusa Penida
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Scuba Junkie Penida Dive Centre, a few minutes walk from Toya Pakeh harbour
Review of Scuba Junkie Dive Centre

Dive equipment: All new and in excellent condition. Full 5mm Bare wetsuits are amazingly comfortable, and not restrictive at all (I don’t like full wetsuits!). Their custom made Scuba Junkie BCD’s all have an SMB (surface marker buoy) in their pocket for your safety, should you become separated from your buddy, or dive master during the dive by a strong current. Regulators breathe freely and smooth, booties and fins in varying sizes to suit everyone.

Dive boat and crew: The dive boat is large, well maintained, has a ladder for exiting, and tank ranks for storing tanks safely (this is important when driving along in sea swells). The crew are very helpful and friendly, tea, coffee and biscuits are provided for surface intervals. Delicious lunch box provided on diving days.

Dive Masters: We judge all dive guides and dive masters by Scuba Junkie standards full stop. Sy did his Dive Master at SJ Mabul, and they are highly regarded for their training within the dive industry. Safety standards are adhered to at all times, and a strict “no touching, no chasing” policy is applied by all dive centres. The Dive Masters at Scuba Junkie Nusa Penida met all these standards, but then again, I wouldn’t expect anything less.
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Accommodation: Their dormitory and private rooms were still being painted when we visited, so unfortunately we were unable to stay with them. Their accommodation is now fully operational, so future guests will be able to book a dive/accommodation package, just as you can with all of Scuba Junkie dive resorts.
For bookings and enquiries, email [email protected]
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
On the Scuba Junkie dive boat heading towards a Nusa Penida dive site
How to get to Nusa Penida

Bali, Sanur port: Many fast boats run several times daily from the port of Sanur in south Bali, arriving into Toyapakah in Penida, on the north coast. Do note that there is no jetty at Sanur and you will need to wade into the water to board the boat. Make sure you wear flip flops which can be removed easily, and either a pair of shorts or walking trousers that you don't mind getting wet. There is a set of steps near the check in desks so look out for them, otherwise you will have to climb over rocky boulders to reach the beach and your boat (whichever company you choose).

We used Angel Billabong via the website www.penidago.com, cost was 150,000 IDR per person each way. 

Bali, Padang Bai port: Fast boats also run from here, but also the slow ferries which stop in Sampalan in Penida, also on the north coast.

From Lembongan: Grab a local boat from “the yellow bridge” for 60,000 IDR per person.
​
From Gili Islands: There are no direct boats from the Gilis, however you can get the Eka Jaya fast boat from Gili Air or Gili Trawangan to Padang Bai, then onto Nusa Penida.
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Angel Billabong check in desk at Bali Sanur habour
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Bali Sanur Harbour
Our accommodation on Nusa Penida

Unfortunately Scuba Junkie’s accommodation wasn’t quite ready when we visited (it is now fully operational), so we stayed at the excellent Arsa Santhi a minute’s walk away. The rooms were spacious, the bed very comfortable, great shower with hot water and good power, all staff were exceptional and friendly, breakfast was tasty and plentiful. 
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Mola Mola, Ocean Funfish, Scuba Diving, weird fish, manta ray, mobula ray, Nusa Penida, Nusa Islands, Bali, Indonesia
Getting around Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida is a developing island, so infrastructure is still in its infancy. Inland roads are very bad and here is no public transport, no Grab, Uber, Go Jek or taxis of any kind, so most people travel around on a scooter. 

In the past year, the Government has invested in building a new road all around the coast, however driving inland to the tourist spots can be described as treacherous. Steep hills up and down, you will encounter broken concrete roads with holes and gravel. It is sometimes a strain on the forearms holding the scooter slow and steady downhill, and if you are not confident on a scooter, you may find it extremely challenging.

If you do hire a scooter, ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET. Locals do not wear them, and you may see many tourists without them posting photos on Instagram “no helmet, sorry Mum”. Accidents are frequent due to the hazardous road conditions, and people scootering too fast.

​Don’t be one of the accident statistics. It’s better to arrive at your destination with helmet hair, than not arrive at all. 

If you break your collar bone or any other part of your body, not only will you not be able to go scuba diving, but you will need to get a fast boat back to the mainland to go to hospital, and that is the end of your Nusa Penida holiday.
Cost: 75,000 – 100,000 IDR per day depending on your haggling skills

Have you been scuba diving in Nusa Penida? What did you see? Tell us in the comment section below!

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Nusa Penida island, off the coast of #Bali, Indonesia, is one of the best places in the world to dive with #mobula rays (#manta rays) and Ocean #Sunfish known as Mola Mola. It’s a weird fish, and the largest bony fish in the world, but would Feet Do Travel be lucky enough to see one? #mola #molamola #oceansunfish #mantas #nusapenida #nusaislands #baliguide #indotravellers #thingstodo #exploreindonesia #visitindonesia #travel #travelblog #travelblogger #travelling #travelguides
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​The #FeetDoTravel blog link-up!

We are proud to host the #FeetDoTravel blog Linkup. If you have a blog post you would like to share, feel free to click on the picture below which will take you through to our Facebook Community and drop your link there. The link-up is open from Friday 12.00am (midnight UK time) and will close Sunday 12.00pm (midnight UK time). We are a fun and loyal group who are more than happy to comment, share and reciprocate! Happy Travelling Feet Fans!
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5 Comments
Dylan link
19/10/2018 06:12:39 pm

Those nudibranch photos are incredible! I just started diving with an underwater photography setup in the last week, so I have a whole new appreciation for vibrant, colorful photos like these. Hopefully I'll be able to get a strobe set up by the time I make it to Nusa Penida :) Thanks for all the info!

Reply
Kelly link
20/10/2018 02:22:52 am

Your dive photos are stunning! I'm itching to get back in the water, but sadly I think it'll be a while yet since our upcoming travels are to wintry destinations (not my idea of a fun dive haha). This is a fabulous guide & I'm sure I'll be referencing it when we plan a trip to Indonesia.

Reply
Lena link
20/10/2018 07:55:23 am

Wow - absolutely love this post. I guess these dive sites are incredible for macro divers. The photo with the nudibranch next to the flatworm is stunning! Also, do you know if it is common to see mola mola while diving in the area? I've never seen them during a dive.

Reply
Emese link
20/10/2018 09:00:47 pm

Your photos are amazing! I'm scared of water (really, no joke), so never considered scuba diving, I was lucky to snorkel a few times, but your images make me wish I would do it. So many colors the sea! Absolutely beautiful!

Reply
Sharon link
22/10/2018 06:32:48 pm

Your underwater photos are so clear and colorful and astounding. What fun to be able to dive and see such sights. I've snorkeled and enjoyed it but I'm pretty apprehensive about diving. You and Sy are inspiring, though!

Reply

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