I really enjoyed Kuta, Lombok, it had that rustic feel of a developing town.
Everyone has heard of Kuta in Bali, the overcrowded “surfs up dude” party capital of Indonesia, but Kuta in Lombok, Bali’s larger sister island, is far superior if you ask me. Although Kuta Lombok is an up-and-coming destination, it has many local cultures and traditions which are still practiced there today.
Located in the South of Lombok, the coastal town of Kuta is growing steadily and making a name for itself. With its rugged views, lush green hills and white surf beaches, we wanted to see what the fuss was about.
So why should you visit Kuta in Lombok?
Everyone has heard of Kuta in Bali, the overcrowded “surfs up dude” party capital of Indonesia, but Kuta in Lombok, Bali’s larger sister island, is far superior if you ask me. Although Kuta Lombok is an up-and-coming destination, it has many local cultures and traditions which are still practiced there today.
Located in the South of Lombok, the coastal town of Kuta is growing steadily and making a name for itself. With its rugged views, lush green hills and white surf beaches, we wanted to see what the fuss was about.
So why should you visit Kuta in Lombok?
My first impression of Kuta, Lombok: a beach town with plenty of life. Immediately I noticed Kuta wasn’t anywhere as busy or hectic as it’s Bali namesake. Good. What a relief!
There wasn’t a “lets’ get smashed” vibe, instead it had an authentic and laid back feeling. Yes there are plenty of surfers, but there was more to it. A happening place for travellers as well as surfers, the rich culture is still evident, and we liked that. We felt comfortable and relaxed in Kuta Lombok.
There is a multi-billion dollar development scheme being developed by Bali Tourism Development Corp (BTDC), who were responsible for the up-market Nusa Dua in Bali. Hotel developments and an 18-hole golf course are planned, plus the Mandalika Resort is rumoured to include an F1 Race Track, integrated theme park, concert hall and underwater marine museum.
In the future, laid-back Lombok may not feel quite so "rustic", and I'm unsure whether it's more-conservative population will be able to handle the change this influx of tourism will bring.
At the moment, there are a few supermarkets, plenty of local clothing stalls, and a good variety of eateries to please every palette. Aside from Warungs serving delicious local dishes, there are many western establishments. If you are on a budget, there are plenty of happy hour deals on food as well as drinks. We stumbled across Gecko Lounge & Bar, a chilled out restaurant with good music … and delicious pizza!
There wasn’t a “lets’ get smashed” vibe, instead it had an authentic and laid back feeling. Yes there are plenty of surfers, but there was more to it. A happening place for travellers as well as surfers, the rich culture is still evident, and we liked that. We felt comfortable and relaxed in Kuta Lombok.
There is a multi-billion dollar development scheme being developed by Bali Tourism Development Corp (BTDC), who were responsible for the up-market Nusa Dua in Bali. Hotel developments and an 18-hole golf course are planned, plus the Mandalika Resort is rumoured to include an F1 Race Track, integrated theme park, concert hall and underwater marine museum.
In the future, laid-back Lombok may not feel quite so "rustic", and I'm unsure whether it's more-conservative population will be able to handle the change this influx of tourism will bring.
At the moment, there are a few supermarkets, plenty of local clothing stalls, and a good variety of eateries to please every palette. Aside from Warungs serving delicious local dishes, there are many western establishments. If you are on a budget, there are plenty of happy hour deals on food as well as drinks. We stumbled across Gecko Lounge & Bar, a chilled out restaurant with good music … and delicious pizza!
Gecko Lounge and Bar - a great place for dinner and drinks
Original Lombok inhabitants are from the Sasak Tribe, therefore much of Lombok is steeped in Sasak culture, and you will hear this mentioned a lot in this post. One thing to mention which is rather important, is Kuta, Lombok is predominantly Muslim, whereas Kuta, Bali is predominantly Hindu. I have explained at the bottom of this post, the difference regarding these two religions, and how you can be more culturally sensitive as a traveller to Indonesia.
We were lucky enough to see a few of the Lombok traditions during our stay which I will talk about later.
Experiencing Kuta Lombok
We booked a couple of nights at Hadiqa Villas. We enjoyed our time here and in Kuta so much, we extended our stay. We had a sweet hotel room with air con, a nice shower (although cold water), comfortable bed with a duvet, flat screen TV, a balcony and a swimming pool – all at backpacker prices! I thought I had died and gone to heaven. The simple things in life you take for granted.
We were lucky enough to see a few of the Lombok traditions during our stay which I will talk about later.
Experiencing Kuta Lombok
We booked a couple of nights at Hadiqa Villas. We enjoyed our time here and in Kuta so much, we extended our stay. We had a sweet hotel room with air con, a nice shower (although cold water), comfortable bed with a duvet, flat screen TV, a balcony and a swimming pool – all at backpacker prices! I thought I had died and gone to heaven. The simple things in life you take for granted.
Our simple but very comfortable room at Hadiqa Villas, Kuta, Lombok
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Our simple accommodation also had a lovely swimming pool
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The area was perfect. We were opposite a rice field about 10 minutes’ walk from a main road which had supermarkets and eateries. From our room, we couldn’t hear the mosque or roosters! Now that was something new.
The rice terrace opposite our accommodation
We decided to hire a scooter for a couple of days to see as much of the area as possible. Driving around was wonderful, the scenery was just beautiful. Lush green hills and jagged cliffs all the way to the coast, the sun was shining, the breeze cool and refreshing.
Mawun Beach – the beach which tells two stories
Kuta is known for its pristine white beaches, allegedly some of the best in Indonesia! That is rather a bold claim, considering we have travelled a lot of Indonesia, so we decided to head for one of the most popular beaches - Mawun.
We scootered along a mountainous road winding up and down, through developing sites and rice fields. Eventually we reached Mawun Beach, paid our 10,000 IDR and parked.
Mawun Beach – the beach which tells two stories
Kuta is known for its pristine white beaches, allegedly some of the best in Indonesia! That is rather a bold claim, considering we have travelled a lot of Indonesia, so we decided to head for one of the most popular beaches - Mawun.
We scootered along a mountainous road winding up and down, through developing sites and rice fields. Eventually we reached Mawun Beach, paid our 10,000 IDR and parked.
Unbeknown to us, there are two parking areas, and this gives Mawun Beach two completely different and contrasting experiences. Most people head for the second parking area which is near the beach warungs, If you don’t wish to be faced with the harsh reality of our world’s plastic problem, I suggest you do the same.
We parked in the first parking area and walked onto the beach. What a shock we had. To the left was nothing but rubbish; plastic upon plastic washed up from the ocean covering the entire length of the beach. Our hearts sunk. We could not believe this beach was considered beautiful. What had happened, when had things changed? It was yet another sad reminder of the world’s trash problem which we had recently encountered at Pink Beach and Gili Kedis.
We know Kuta, Bali has a huge issue with trash on the beach which isn’t helped by the vast number of visitors it receives. Thankfully efforts are continually being made to rectify this problem.
We parked in the first parking area and walked onto the beach. What a shock we had. To the left was nothing but rubbish; plastic upon plastic washed up from the ocean covering the entire length of the beach. Our hearts sunk. We could not believe this beach was considered beautiful. What had happened, when had things changed? It was yet another sad reminder of the world’s trash problem which we had recently encountered at Pink Beach and Gili Kedis.
We know Kuta, Bali has a huge issue with trash on the beach which isn’t helped by the vast number of visitors it receives. Thankfully efforts are continually being made to rectify this problem.
In my World Oceans Day post, I explained that Indonesia is the second highest contributor of plastic waste into our oceans. We can all help by reducing single use plastic when we travel, two easy ways are to always carry a refillable water bottle and bamboo/metal straw. When you buy a fresh coconut or any cold drink, a plastic straw WILL be provided, so say “no straw” or “tidak plastik” when you order.
For a beautiful Mawun beach experience, park at the second area near the warungs.
For a beautiful Mawun beach experience, park at the second area near the warungs.
The trash is down the far end of this side of the beach. But look how beautiful this side is!
We strolled down the beach and all of a sudden it was beautiful and clean. The view was gorgeous, set in a half moon shaped cove with crystal clear two coloured ocean, against the backdrop of lush green cliffs. It was midday and, upon first glance at the sand, it looked a little pink, not too dissimilar to Pink Beach. Upon closer inspection, the grains of sand were white/black pebbledash which looked white against the ocean.
Can you see the slight pink hue on the sand?
A local fisherman was standing in the sea attempting to catch food in a sustainable way. Just one man and his fishing line.
We sat at a warung, ordered a cold refreshing drink and admired the pretty view. There were wooden sunbeds with parasols, and just a few people enjoying a lovely day at the beach. There were no crowds, definitely not like the beaches in Bali.
This is what we look for in a paradise beach; peace, tranquillity and a gorgeous view.
This is what we look for in a paradise beach; peace, tranquillity and a gorgeous view.
What a gorgeous view! I told you this was a beach which told two stories!
There are also many different beaches to choose from in and around Kuta to suit all tastes:
Ashtari Coffee House
The view from Ashtari Coffee House is what draws people here. On the road leading to Mawun beach, Ashtari is a lovely, cool open plan restaurant, coffee shop and yoga place perched at the top of a hill looking down into Kuta Bay.
- Kuta Beach – the main beach in Kuta, perfect for families
- Tanjung Aan Beach - good for snorkelling, considered by many to be the best beach around Kuta
- Selong Belanak – popular with surfers, and listed as one of the best places in the world to learn
- Ekas Beach – a paradise for surfers and kite surfers
- Segar Beach – surfers and sun worshippers will love this beach, also a great sunrise/sunset spot
- Mawi Beach – good beach for experienced surfers but difficult to reach
- Lancing Beach – a secluded beach with no facilities, take food and refreshments with you
- Semeti Beach – difficult to reach and no facilities, take food and refreshments with you
Ashtari Coffee House
The view from Ashtari Coffee House is what draws people here. On the road leading to Mawun beach, Ashtari is a lovely, cool open plan restaurant, coffee shop and yoga place perched at the top of a hill looking down into Kuta Bay.
Lunch with a view? This is what you can have if you dine at Ashtari Coffee House
We have to agree, the view was stunning, so we chose a table with a panoramic view, and perused the lunchtime menu.
See what I mean? The view from our table is gorgeous!
The table next to us ordered a pink energy smoothie: I had drink-envy, it’s vibrant colour was just so inviting. We opted to try the lasagna for lunch, oh wow! A big tasty portion costing only 70,000 IDR (there was also a vegetarian option), we swear it’s the best lasagne we have every tried.
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Ashtari’s rave reviews are well deserved. It’s such a lovely place to relax, read a book lounge in a baruga or beanbag. You could spend all day here! Cooking classes run 10am-12pm and 1-3pm, cost 190,000 IDR per person, and need to be booked in advance. If you are a yogi, classes run all day from 6.30am through to 5.15pm. For sunset lovers, this is a perfect viewing spot whilst sipping on a cocktail.
If you are in Kuta, make time to stop at Ashtari Coffee House, any time of day or night.
If you are in Kuta, make time to stop at Ashtari Coffee House, any time of day or night.
Sasak cultural events
As mentioned, Lombok is rich with Sasak culture and traditions, a few of which we had a chance to witness.
Nyongkolan - a traditional Lombok Wedding Parade
Most Saturdays you will see a wedding parade marching through the streets. It’s a wonderful, colourful, noisy event but one that is definitely worth stopping to watch. This unique Sasak tradition is a wedding processional line called Nyongkolan, made up of relatives wearing traditional, colourful clothing. Musicians are playing as they walk; tambourines, various percussion instruments and drums of all different sizes Many locals participate in the parade walking alongside the procession which often causes traffic jams. If you are caught up in the traffic, don’t fight it, just relax and roll with it, this is a special event and a privilege to witness.
As mentioned, Lombok is rich with Sasak culture and traditions, a few of which we had a chance to witness.
Nyongkolan - a traditional Lombok Wedding Parade
Most Saturdays you will see a wedding parade marching through the streets. It’s a wonderful, colourful, noisy event but one that is definitely worth stopping to watch. This unique Sasak tradition is a wedding processional line called Nyongkolan, made up of relatives wearing traditional, colourful clothing. Musicians are playing as they walk; tambourines, various percussion instruments and drums of all different sizes Many locals participate in the parade walking alongside the procession which often causes traffic jams. If you are caught up in the traffic, don’t fight it, just relax and roll with it, this is a special event and a privilege to witness.
The Bride and Groom with their wedding procession
Dusun Sade – Traditional Sasak Village
Sade Sasak Village is built in the traditional Bale (pronounced baa-lay) style. If you are unfamiliar with the Sasak Culture, this is a lovey place to start. I have read reviews about friendly guides providing information about the local traditions.
Sade Sasak Village is built in the traditional Bale (pronounced baa-lay) style. If you are unfamiliar with the Sasak Culture, this is a lovey place to start. I have read reviews about friendly guides providing information about the local traditions.
Having lived on Gili Air for a year, we were familiar with the Sasak culture, so wanted to stroll around for ourselves. Clearly this was not appreciated. There is no entrance fee, but an option to pay for a guide to take you around. Notice I said “option”, I will be honest, this wasn’t true for us. We were made to feel we had to have a guide to receive an authentic experience. We tried to say several times that we wanted to know how this village compared to Sasak on GIli Air, but money talks and our words were unheard.
Most of the various style Bales have been made into shops for locals to sell their wares, it felt like a tourist trap and less of a traditional village.
We walked too far and found ourselves in the real living areas, where corn was drying in the sun in front of a lush green rice field.
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A friendly man pointed us in the right direction, and when we responded in a little Bahasa Indonesian, he was happy to speak with us. This is the most authentic experience we had on this visit, and we are grateful we steered off the track (although this is not recommended).
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Bau Nyale Festival – “Peresean” stick fighting competition
We visited Lombok early March, at the time of its annual Bau Nyale Festival. This week long event celebrates the legend of Princess Mandalika, and culminates with locals gathering on the beach to catch sea worms. In the Sasak language, Bau Nyale translated means to catch sea worms; Bau is “to catch” and Nyale is the name given to the sea worms
We visited Lombok early March, at the time of its annual Bau Nyale Festival. This week long event celebrates the legend of Princess Mandalika, and culminates with locals gathering on the beach to catch sea worms. In the Sasak language, Bau Nyale translated means to catch sea worms; Bau is “to catch” and Nyale is the name given to the sea worms
Locals collecting worms at the Bau Nyale Festival. Photo credit: Indonesia Travel
The legend: Princess Mandalika was a beautiful Princess, and Princes from every corner wished to marry her. There was competition and fighting amongst the men which saddened the Princess, so to restore peace to the island she loved, she threw herself into the sea. Her people tried to rescue her, but only managed to retrieve sea worms called the Nyale. The belief is that the Nyale are the reincarnation of the Princess. The Nyale, which are considered sacred, only appear on the shores of Lombok once a year. They bring prosperity if you honour them, and misfortune if you don’t.
At the Bau Nyale Festival, there are many cultural events including the ancient marital art of Peresean stick fighting, which recreates the legend of Princess Mandalika.
At the Bau Nyale Festival, there are many cultural events including the ancient marital art of Peresean stick fighting, which recreates the legend of Princess Mandalika.
Fighters use rattan sticks to attack, and defend with a cowhide shield. Traditional Sasak music is played as opponents fight each other in time with the beat, in the art of Sasak tribal dancing. Although it is an intense display of masculinity, courage and agility, the fight ends with hug of friendship to show no sign of resentment, after all, this is just a game.
We visited on the day of the Stick Fighting Competition, so head to Kuta Beach to try and catch a glimpse. When we arrived, make-shift platforms had been built and the area was teeming with people all around. It was a very busy and popular event.
Make shift platforms for the stick fighting competition. Can this flimsy structure hold this many people?
Music could be heard and yells of support from the crowd, but we were unable to really see anything. As we made our way closer to see the front, one of the stands collapsed and the whole event stopped so they could clear the area. Thankfully no one was injured, alas we will have to wait for another occasion to watch this fascinating sport.
We were surprised at how much we enjoyed Kuta Lombok. There was something raw about this area which appealed to us. Would we recommend Kuta to our friends? Yes, absolutely!
Bali v Lombok – Important Differences you Need to Know
I have to point out the most important difference between Kuta, Bali and Kuta, Lombok – the religion A difference in attitude and understanding needs to be applied, because residents of Lombok are more conservative. This is also relevant if you are visiting Gili Trawangan, Gili Air or Gili Meno.
We were surprised at how much we enjoyed Kuta Lombok. There was something raw about this area which appealed to us. Would we recommend Kuta to our friends? Yes, absolutely!
Bali v Lombok – Important Differences you Need to Know
I have to point out the most important difference between Kuta, Bali and Kuta, Lombok – the religion A difference in attitude and understanding needs to be applied, because residents of Lombok are more conservative. This is also relevant if you are visiting Gili Trawangan, Gili Air or Gili Meno.
Bali is predominantly Hindu which believe in many Gods. Cows are considered sacred so they don’t eat beef, but you can get ham and bacon.
Lombok is predominantly Muslim and follow Islam which recognises only one God, Allah. Pigs are deemed dirty so pork, bacon, ham, sausage or anything deriving from pigs isn’t eaten. Beef, however, is enjoyed, Rendang being a popular dish.
Indonesia has the largest number of Muslims in the world, and the call to prayer from neighbouring mosques is heard five times a day. Once a year, Ramadan is observed so patience and understanding needs to be applied during that time. If you wish to know more about this time of fasting and spiritual exploration, read Ramadan Explained.
In Lombok, walking (or scootering) around the streets away from the beach area whilst scantily dressed in bikinis is culturally offensive. Muslim women dress modestly, and you will see the majority of women wearing a headscarf (hijab). Topless sunbathing is strictly forbidden. In Bali, Balinese women used to go topless well into the 20th century, and some can still be seen in rural communities today, so there is more tolerance (but respectful dress should still be applied away from the beach area, even though this is often ignored).
A Couple of Annoyances to Beware of
Child bracelet sellers
This is a difficult and complicated topic. I don’t know the reason behind the sell, but I feel uncomfortable buying bracelets from children, and don’t wish to unwittingly contribute to child tourism.
Lombok isn’t a rich province, and anyone visiting will be considered to have money, even if you are a backpacker watching your pennies.
In every restaurant and bar we visited, there were always children aged five and upwards attempting to sell cheap bracelets from a folded cardboard display. The kids were charming, friendly and talkative, they shake your hand and understand that getting personal with you is the way to sell. Then they unleash their big doe-eyes on you as they go in for the kill, and start the haggling process of convincing you to buy from them. We have also heard about persistent child sellers on the beaches, some hug your leg which appears cute, but that’s when you have to watch out for pickpockets!
Hiring a scooter (relevant not just for Lombok, but all over the world)
We hired a scooter for 60,000 IDR per day from our accommodation, but beware, there are some less than reputable businesses running scams such as “you damaged my bike now pay for it”. When hiring a scooter, make sure you inspect the bike taking photos of scratches or any other damage. Always check the bikes mechanics; the lights, brakes and tyres. Never give your passport or drivers licence as security.
Always insist on wearing a helmet. No day trip is worth risking your life over. We were astonished at the number of people who did not wear helmets! One evening when siting on a roof top bar overlooking the road, we decided to count. Out of 100 people, only 14 people wore helmets. If you hire a scooter, please do not follow this lead – always wear a helmet and travel safe guys!
Lombok is predominantly Muslim and follow Islam which recognises only one God, Allah. Pigs are deemed dirty so pork, bacon, ham, sausage or anything deriving from pigs isn’t eaten. Beef, however, is enjoyed, Rendang being a popular dish.
Indonesia has the largest number of Muslims in the world, and the call to prayer from neighbouring mosques is heard five times a day. Once a year, Ramadan is observed so patience and understanding needs to be applied during that time. If you wish to know more about this time of fasting and spiritual exploration, read Ramadan Explained.
In Lombok, walking (or scootering) around the streets away from the beach area whilst scantily dressed in bikinis is culturally offensive. Muslim women dress modestly, and you will see the majority of women wearing a headscarf (hijab). Topless sunbathing is strictly forbidden. In Bali, Balinese women used to go topless well into the 20th century, and some can still be seen in rural communities today, so there is more tolerance (but respectful dress should still be applied away from the beach area, even though this is often ignored).
A Couple of Annoyances to Beware of
Child bracelet sellers
This is a difficult and complicated topic. I don’t know the reason behind the sell, but I feel uncomfortable buying bracelets from children, and don’t wish to unwittingly contribute to child tourism.
Lombok isn’t a rich province, and anyone visiting will be considered to have money, even if you are a backpacker watching your pennies.
In every restaurant and bar we visited, there were always children aged five and upwards attempting to sell cheap bracelets from a folded cardboard display. The kids were charming, friendly and talkative, they shake your hand and understand that getting personal with you is the way to sell. Then they unleash their big doe-eyes on you as they go in for the kill, and start the haggling process of convincing you to buy from them. We have also heard about persistent child sellers on the beaches, some hug your leg which appears cute, but that’s when you have to watch out for pickpockets!
Hiring a scooter (relevant not just for Lombok, but all over the world)
We hired a scooter for 60,000 IDR per day from our accommodation, but beware, there are some less than reputable businesses running scams such as “you damaged my bike now pay for it”. When hiring a scooter, make sure you inspect the bike taking photos of scratches or any other damage. Always check the bikes mechanics; the lights, brakes and tyres. Never give your passport or drivers licence as security.
Always insist on wearing a helmet. No day trip is worth risking your life over. We were astonished at the number of people who did not wear helmets! One evening when siting on a roof top bar overlooking the road, we decided to count. Out of 100 people, only 14 people wore helmets. If you hire a scooter, please do not follow this lead – always wear a helmet and travel safe guys!
Wondering what to pack for your Indonesian trip? Let us help with the essentials in our Ultimate Packing List for Worldwide Travel (tried and tested!
How do I get to Kuta, Lombok?
There is an airport in Praya, Lombok, about an hour from Kuta. You can then catch a taxi to Kuta.
Travelling from the Gilis? Get a local hopper boat from the Gilis to Bangsal, then a taxi to Kuta which will take about two hours. Haggle with the drivers, or walk just a little further onto the road and get a metered Bluebird taxi. Cost should be around 250,000 IDR.
If you are catching a boat, we suggest checking ferry schedules ahead of time, and booking in advance online with Bookaway. It will save time and hassle, and help you plan your travel itinerary.
Travel Facts & Tips
There is an airport in Praya, Lombok, about an hour from Kuta. You can then catch a taxi to Kuta.
Travelling from the Gilis? Get a local hopper boat from the Gilis to Bangsal, then a taxi to Kuta which will take about two hours. Haggle with the drivers, or walk just a little further onto the road and get a metered Bluebird taxi. Cost should be around 250,000 IDR.
If you are catching a boat, we suggest checking ferry schedules ahead of time, and booking in advance online with Bookaway. It will save time and hassle, and help you plan your travel itinerary.
Travel Facts & Tips
- A 30 day visa is given at the time of arrival in Indonesia (not for all countries, check with your embassy).
- The local currency is Indonesian Rupiah £1 GBP = 18,000 IDR
- Their official language is Bahasa Indonesia which is similar to Malaysian and throughout Indonesia in general
- If you can use just a couple of Indonesian words, this will give you big smile in return, even if you simply use “Pagi” (morning) and “Terima Kasih” (thank you), it will be hugely appreciated.
- There are plenty of ATM’s in Kuta.
- Free Wi-Fi is available in most hotels, homestays, warungs and restaurants.
- A warung is a small, family run restaurants offering cheap, tasty local and western dishes.
Have you been to Kuta Lombok and Kuta Bali? What are your thoughts? Did you prefer one to the other? Tell us in the comments below!
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Best Sunset Spots on Gili Air
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Gili Trawangan - Not Just A Party Island
Gili Meno - The Island of Love
Gili Asahan - The Secret Gili Islands
Gili Gede - The Secret Gili Islands
Gili Sudak and Gili Kedis - The Secret Gili Islands
Travelling or Diving around Indonesia?
Bali - Is Sanur Worth Visiting?
Searching for Street Art in Canggu, Bali
15 Things to do in Canggu, Bali
Indonesian Orangutan Adventure
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Need more advice? Lonely Planet books have always been my first point of reference! Alternatively, other people prefer DK Eywitness or The Rough Guide - take your pick!
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