When you are thinking of visiting the jungle, is the rainforest of Brunei in Borneo somewhere you have considered? Let me tell you, it definitely should be! Scientists believe that the Bornean jungle could be as old as 130 million years, making it the oldest on the planet.
But why, out of all the other jungles you can visit, should Ulu Temburong in Brunei be the one you choose?
But why, out of all the other jungles you can visit, should Ulu Temburong in Brunei be the one you choose?
Due to the wealth of this small Country from other sources of income (for example crude oil and natural gas production), the government have had no reason to chop any of it down which means 70% of Brunei is rainforest. This pristine jungle isn’t just full of thick, plentiful, sky high trees, oh no, this is considered primary rainforest – which basically means it is untouched by man, and within it live a plethora of plant and animal species unique to Borneo. If you love raw nature, the Bornean rainforest is considered to be one of the world's top biodiversity hotspots.
Our time in the jungle began with a 45 minute speedboat ride from Brunei’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan to Bangar Town. Initially, I didn’t think that a sturdy 30 seater “speedboat” could zip along, but it certainly does; the boat drivers certainly have a unique set of skills as they steer the 400bhp engine sharply around the twists and turns of the Brunei River.
Although they don't look it, these boats are powerful and fast which leads to a great ride up river
We were unable able to find a way of visiting the rainforest independently so a tour was the easiest way of getting there. After much research, we booked a 2D/1N Complete Rainforest Experience with Borneo Guide and I cannot rate them highly enough!
Our guide, Brian, met us with a big friendly smile and talked to us with such passion about the Brunei rainforest. He taught us so much during the 20 minute car journey from Bangar Town to our camp at Sumbiling Eco Village and his enthusiasm was infectious, making us feel excited for the days we had ahead.
Upon arrival at our camp, I was super excited to see the tent we would be sleeping in – it was more like glamping than a tent and it was super comfortable and cosy; when I went to sleep that evening, I had a happy, contented smile of my face as I drifted off listening to the relaxing sound of the jungle. If there is a heaven, surely it would feel like this?
Our guide, Brian, met us with a big friendly smile and talked to us with such passion about the Brunei rainforest. He taught us so much during the 20 minute car journey from Bangar Town to our camp at Sumbiling Eco Village and his enthusiasm was infectious, making us feel excited for the days we had ahead.
Upon arrival at our camp, I was super excited to see the tent we would be sleeping in – it was more like glamping than a tent and it was super comfortable and cosy; when I went to sleep that evening, I had a happy, contented smile of my face as I drifted off listening to the relaxing sound of the jungle. If there is a heaven, surely it would feel like this?
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 Camping? more like Glamping! |  So close to nature, but still got plenty of sleep |
Sumbiling Village itself is in the Temburong District of Brunei and has a small longhouse of four units housing 70 people, all of whom are related. Sumbiling has a population of only 9,000; that is one of the things we loved about Brunei, we never had that crowded feeling as not a lot of people live there.
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The District of Temburong is an exclave which means it is part of a Country physically separated from the rest of the nation; in short, it’s land mass is surrounded by the Malaysian state of Sarawak. Apparently all of Borneo used to look like Ulu Temburong National Park before 80% of the Rainforest was chopped down for logging with the resulting land used for Palm Oil plantations. We found this statistic to be shocking, not just because of the high percentage, but having visited all parts of Borneo, to the untrained eye, it all seems dense and lush and we couldn’t help but wonder what it used to be like. It is believed that, Borneo’s forests are being destroyed at twice the rate of the rest of the world’s rainforests. If you would like to know more of the deforestation in Borneo, have a read of this article.
Ulu Temburong National Park
The only way to reach the entrance of the National Park is by longboat, and we had a thrilling 45 minute journey whizzing up the Temburong River. Nasir (our boatman) skilfully dodged the rapids we encountered along the way and I really felt as though we were truly on an adventure. It was ace! As the wind rushed through my hair, the happier I became and I was about to enter the jungle with a big smile on my face.
Ulu Temburong National Park
The only way to reach the entrance of the National Park is by longboat, and we had a thrilling 45 minute journey whizzing up the Temburong River. Nasir (our boatman) skilfully dodged the rapids we encountered along the way and I really felt as though we were truly on an adventure. It was ace! As the wind rushed through my hair, the happier I became and I was about to enter the jungle with a big smile on my face.
Whizzing up a swollen, rapid river in a thin longboat was exhilarating
The views along the journey were stunning. At first we drove past Nipa Palm trees, through mangrove forests which gave way to sky-high dipterocarps all lush and green which make up most of the jungle canopy. This was primary rainforest territory and our first glance at how pristine this jungle really is.
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Canopy Walk
As part of the tour, there is the option to do the Canopy Walk, however if you don’t like heights and your friend/partner does, you can still walk through the jungle with them and enjoy the experience. To reach the base of the canopy walk, we walked up 385 metres via 380 wooden steps, some were rather steep!
Walking through the jungle, Brian talked to us a little about the trees and the park itself. Only natural fertiliser such as teabags and leaf litter are used as the government stopped anything artificial. If a tree falls, it isn’t removed; nature is left to reclaim it so the ants and other jungle critters begin to break it down and use it in the way nature intended.
 Steps.... |  So many steps... |
Now let me tell you about this particular canopy walk because I most definitely did not attempt this one! We had not long been to Mulu where I braved the 25 metre high bridge, but this one started at 40 metres! Ha! Not on your nelly was I doing this, but Sy was raring to go so he and Brian toddled off together. To reach the first bridge, Sy had to walk up 15 sets of ladders en-caged in a narrow scaffolding-like tower which loomed high into the treetops; it’s no wonder around a third of visitors who reach this point choose not to continue. Just one look at that structure told me this was way above what I could do with my fear of heights, so I sent Sy on his way with the camera and a smile (I wondered if he would still be wearing the latter when he returned!).
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There are five steel framed towers with aluminium walkways with a total of 900 ladder steps and, once you make a start climbing, there is no going back. One way traffic only. Once you begin climbing the ladder you are committed to see it through to the end. So remember, once you start, there is no going back!
For safety, only five people are allowed on the first tower and only two people are allowed on the bridge at any one time.
For safety, only five people are allowed on the first tower and only two people are allowed on the bridge at any one time.
Even though the first bridge starts at 40 metres, there is the option to climb up further to a viewing deck which is 48 metres high and of course, Sy being the lad that he is opted to go to the very top. The views were breath taking; it was such a beautiful sunny day with a gorgeous blue sky and in the distance he could see Malaysia.
Over the hill in the distance is Malaysia
He climbed down from the high tower and begun his walk along the first 15m long bridge, and this is where this structure is particularly interesting/cruel (whichever way you want to look at it!). Sy had to climb a ladder another 8m to the 2nd tower, walk yet another 15m and climb another ladder 8m to reach the last tower. This final tower also had a viewing deck which meant climbing 8m to the top. He was now 68 metres off the ground and higher than the treetops.
The view of the Canopy Walk from the first 48 meter tower
It's only 48 meters.... where is the ground again!?!?!
He literally felt as though he was on top of the world; he was higher than the forest canopy and able to look down to the ground below him … a loooong, looooong way down!
48 meters from the ground, above the jungle canopy - time to take a selfie!
The views were stunning and the walkways surprisingly sturdy - but they still rocked a little!
 Don't look down.... oops, too late! |  |
When Sy joined me again after about 40 minutes, he still had a big smile on his face, in fact, I would say it was even bigger than when he set off! If you have a head for heights, if you want to challenge yourself or if you simply want to see the stunning views from high above the treetops, this trip is definitely for you!
Jungle day spa
During our daytrip we had a jungle fish pedicure, massage and facial, but you may be wondering how?
For the fish pedicure, we walked for a few minutes in our walking sandals through a rocky stream to a small waterfall.
Jungle day spa
During our daytrip we had a jungle fish pedicure, massage and facial, but you may be wondering how?
For the fish pedicure, we walked for a few minutes in our walking sandals through a rocky stream to a small waterfall.
 The secret river path leads to.. |  .. the beautiful fish spa waterfall |
Once we were there, all we had to do was stand still for a few minutes in the base of the falls and the fish pedicure began! If you have had a fish pedicure, you will know how tickly it can feel at times and, as some of these fish were slightly bigger than ones used in “traditional” day-spas, I was certainly laughing a lot. Brian said he used to push his bravery boundary and stand closer and closer to the waterfall because that’s where most of the fish hangout, but he soon stopped when one bit his nipple!
Happy fish pedicure customers!
We left this waterfall and a couple of minutes up river, we walked through another stream, clambered over some rocks through a small waterfall where there was yet another waterfall, but this one we were able to swim in. We changed into our bathers and braved the clear and very “fresh” (some may say refreshing) water swimming over to where the falls were cascading. There was a small rock underneath the falls so we were able to sit and allow the power of the water to jet over our shoulders and back – the best jungle massage you can imagine.
Just as we were leaving the waterfall, the heavens opened and the rainforest delivered again – with torrential rain! The journey back was a challenge; the rain pounded down onto our faces like the hardest shower or vigorous facial and I could hardly see ahead of me it was so heavy. I have no idea how Nasir was able to see enough to power through the rapids and return us safely to camp. It’s a miracle we didn’t capsize with the speed we were going and amount of water that was starting to flood our boat, in fact, it was so deep, we found a catfish by our feet which we quickly threw it back into the water. “That’s my fish!!!” yelled Nasir. It turned out he had been fishing whilst were swimming and that was his dinner. Sorry Nasir!
Earth Hour
What better way to support Earth Hour at 8.30pm on 25 March than in the jungle? We ate dinner by candlelight and it felt as though half the jungle wanted to join us! No real surprise, the food was delicious!
Earth Hour
What better way to support Earth Hour at 8.30pm on 25 March than in the jungle? We ate dinner by candlelight and it felt as though half the jungle wanted to join us! No real surprise, the food was delicious!
 A wonderful candle-lit dinner... |  ... with the uninvited guest |
A green cicada landed in the middle of our table and a larger brown cicada began walking up the leg of our wooden table. Then something happened that we have only ever seen on TV documentaries (which was pretty gross to be honest); a grasshopper fell on the floor next to us and three parasitic worms burst out of its body and began wiggling around. It was both disgusting but amazing to watch at the same time. Nature is fascinating!
The guys at Sumbiling Village lit candles in support of Earth Hour and recorded a video for their Facebook page. The whole of Temburong District joined in this event and we were plunged into darkness which included switching off all generators.
The guys at Sumbiling Village lit candles in support of Earth Hour and recorded a video for their Facebook page. The whole of Temburong District joined in this event and we were plunged into darkness which included switching off all generators.
 FeetDoTravel supporting Earth Hour |  The Eco Village Team supporting Earth Hour |
Night walk
When Earth Hour was over and, just as it started to rain again, Sy went on a Night Walk with some of the guys who worked at the camp and absolutely loved it! At one point, he was stood knee deep on a flooded jungle path taking photos of a frog but he didn’t mind; the boy in him was out to play during this jungle adventure.
Cool frogs were everywhere, this guy struck a pose for us
Just a spider protecting its eggs - we took a wide berth
Very nice lizard waiting for his dinner
He ate natural garlic, saw glow in the dark mushrooms, geckos and big furry spiders. Most exciting for him was getting a chance to photograph a Hairy Mary centipede which are so poisonous, if they bite you, there is a possibility you will die.
The extremely poisonous "Hairy Mary" - it is a type of Centipede
Rainforest trekking
Most of the jungle trekking we have done in the past has been on raised boardwalks or stoney paths – but not in Brunei! This is true jungle territory and the only paths are ones carved out by the footsteps of locals with the odd wooden handrail fashioned together to help you (if you are lucky!). Sy was in his element; he absolutely loves raw nature and back in the UK has been on several survival courses where he has been required to spend weeks in the forest building his own shelter. This trek was made for him… me, not so much, but that was purely down to how clumsy and awkward I am! Thank goodness for Brian and Sy helping me up the leafy trail, down the stoney path and over the gentle rivers. I won’t lie, I felt a little foolish because one of our local guides (Api) was walking through in a pair of flip flops without a care in the world.
We definitely took the path less trodden, but it was great to properly trek the jungle
 Some sections were steep, but still safe |  Negotiating rivers with help! |
Api was incredibly knowledgeable and talked to us about the mushrooms, insects and plants all around. We were shown traditional methods of living in the forest such as making hats out of leaves, using the bark of a tree named the “forever young” to make our skin feel soft again (yes we did look silly rubbing bark all over our face, but it was refreshing!). We were told stories of life here in the jungle and it’s clear how much the guides love it here; one of them feels the need to visit as often as he can; sometimes he will take a walk through these leafy trails just to get his daily fix.
 Api and Brian, thrilled by their jungle hats |  With mushrooms - red means your dead |
All too soon our jungle experience had come to an end and we were driven back to Bangar Town for our return speedboat journey to Bandar Seri Begawan.
Now that you know what Brunei’s jungle has to offer, I hope you put it top of your list when you are thinking about visiting a rainforest, and if the Bornean rainforest is thought to be one the world's top biodiversity hotspots, then you should visit the part which has the highest percentage of pristine jungle.
Virgin rainforests are becoming harder to find, so I suggest you get there quickly – this is Brunei’s hidden gem and I would hate to see it affected if the country’s offshore oil and gas reserves begin to wane!
Now that you know what Brunei’s jungle has to offer, I hope you put it top of your list when you are thinking about visiting a rainforest, and if the Bornean rainforest is thought to be one the world's top biodiversity hotspots, then you should visit the part which has the highest percentage of pristine jungle.
Virgin rainforests are becoming harder to find, so I suggest you get there quickly – this is Brunei’s hidden gem and I would hate to see it affected if the country’s offshore oil and gas reserves begin to wane!
How to get to Brunei
Flying: Royal Brunei Airlines is the national carrier and fly worldwide. Air Asia and MASwings also fly from Kuala Lumpur, Kota Kinabalu and other main cities throughout Borneo.
By land: If you have visited Mulu Caves and are in Miri, it’s only 30 minutes drive from the Brunei border and you can either get a bus from Pujut Bus Terminal at 8.15am or 3.45pm for RM50 or hire a private taxi to pick you up and drop you off door to door for RM70. We chose the latter and would recommend Paul on +673 878 2521 (mobile) or +6013 833 2231 (landline).
Where to stay in Bandar Seri Bagawan before your jungle experience
There are a few places to stay in Brunei to cover all budgets, all can be booked via Booking.com which we use to get the best rates. If you want 5* luxury then head to the Empire Hotel & Country Club, there is also a Radisson Hotel and for smaller budgets, Brunei Hotel. We stayed at the Jubilee Hotel via Booking.com which was a short 10 minute walk from the waterfront and had air conditioning, a wardrobe, fridge and TV. KH Soon and the Youth Hostel are low budget options and you can stay in a homestay at Kampong Water Village for an authentic experience.
Booking a jungle trip with Borneo Guide
The team in the office of Borneo Guide are excellent and will help you to book the trip that you want and need for the time you have available. They were also able to give us hugely helpful tips on the rest of Brunei so why not pay them a visit or drop them an email, you will find them extremely helpful, friendly and more than accommodating.
Website: www.borneoguide.com
Email: sales@borneoguide.com
When to visit
The seasons in the Brunei rainforest run quarterly so January-March and July - September will be dry and April – June then October – December will be rain.
What to wear in the jungle
- Take a rain jacket/poncho with you as it’s not called a “rainforest” for nothing.
- Take water with you as the jungle is hot and humid.
- Wear quick-drying clothes; it doesn’t have to be walking shorts/trousers, sportswear, running gear or board shorts are all perfect for the jungle.
- Non-slip walking boots or sandals should ideally be worn – flip flops are not conducive to this type of activity.
Footwear we actually SAW someone wearing on the jungle trek - nice, but not practical
You can now book hotels through our website as we have an affiliate partnership with Booking.com. Click here to visit our Hotel Booking Page then search as normal. There is no extra cost to you but you will be helping us!
Have you ever thought of visiting Brunei’s jungle? What do you think of it now you have read our experience? Share your thoughts with us in the comments section below … we want to know!
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