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Critters and Caves at Mulu National Park, Borneo

23/7/2017

14 Comments

 
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The sound of a jungle is something I will never tire of hearing. The dawn chorus of birds, the evening symphony of frogs and cicadas – scrub that, the constant deafening sound of frogs and cicadas that can be heard any time of day in the jungle of Mulu, Borneo as you walk through its pristine rainforest.

On our previous travels we had visited jungles in Sepilok, Beko National Park and Tanjang Putting, but had read that the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Gunung Mulu National Park in the heart of Malaysian Borneo, was the most spectacular.
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We had to take a trip here to discover this for ourselves. Feet Do Travel will take you to a place you never knew existed, but if you seek adventure, you will want to add to your list!

​Mulu National Park feels like it is in the middle of nowhere as the only way to reach it is by air. We flew on a small propeller plane from Miri and all we saw were miles of pristine lush jungle and a tropical river snaking through it, it looked like a smaller version of the Amazon! The airport in Mulu is surrounded by peaks and mountains which added to our feelings of being somewhere remote; it was wonderful!
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The jungle river snakes through Mulu National Park like the Amazon
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Our airplane at Mulu National Park airport surrounded by peaks and mountains
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The main road into Mulu National Park - you always feel as though you are in a secret remote location!
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Karst limestone mountains are all around Mulu National Park
Our simple but lovely homestay was a two minute walk from the airport and, after we had dropped off our bags, we discovered a small river backed onto it. The temperature was hot and humid which is usual for a rainforest, so what better way to cool off than going for a swim in a river?

​We dived into the fresh water … wowzers! “Fresh” was the appropriate word! We swam a little up-river and glided back down on the current – it was so much fun and a great way to start our four day adventure in Mulu National Park.
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The fresh jungle river at our homestay
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Our homestay from the river

​An introduction to Mulu National Park
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Mulu was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 after meeting all four of the qualifying criteria. It is famous for its limestone karst formations, vast cave networks, enormous caves, rock pinnacles, cliffs and gorges and of course, it’s stunning scenery. Adjectives used to describe the various cave chambers are the “largest” “longest” and “biggest” in the world and its statistics, history and geology are fascinating. You could spend so much time here reading all facts displayed at the information centre on-site.

The main reason visitors come to Mulu are for its range of fascinating caves. The definition of a cave is “any naturally occurring hole in the surface of the earth which has a zone of complete darkness, and is large enough for a human being to completely enter”

There are many different types of caves and the form and shape of caves can be affected by flowing rivers, strong winds, lava flows, waves pounding, land-mases moving and tectonic forces.

​Mulu is a geologists dream!

Mulu is also a hikers dream and there are many self-guided trails to follow such as Paku Waterfall (2 hours), Paku Valley Loop (8km round trip) Botanic Trail (1.5km) and Kenyalang Loop (2.5km)

Mulu is a place to visit if you love ancient, pristine rainforest, it’s nature at its best! This ticked our box … Mulu was what we had been looking for! 

Fun fact: Tropical and equatorial rainforests cover less than 2% of the earth’s surface but house 50% of all life on the planet

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The entrance to Mulu National Park
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To reach Mulu National Park, you need to cross this bridge first

As mentioned, there are a number of “show caves” which are caves that can be visited by anyone, so we visited them all! Mulu is also a place for anyone interested in adventure caving, this National Park caters for everyone of all ages and levels of adventurous-ness. One of the most popular advanced trips is a hike to the Pinnacles, a 3D/2N adventure which Sy would have loved to have done but alas, this just isn’t for me.

I have to add that I spent most of my time in the jungle wet! Sometimes through sweating in the hot and humid heat and other times due to torrential rain downpours so take a good rain jacket! It’s all part of the jungle experience so plan for it and go with it – it’s fun (remember when you were a child and you would be playing out in the rain without any cares? Transport yourself back in time to those days and enjoy the experience!).

For more information on Mulu National Park, park entry fees, their paid tours, unguided walks, prices and to book your trips, visit their excellent website.
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Our very handy Mulu planner showing all the activities we had booked
Deer Cave – the most popular
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Most people who have heard of Mulu know about Deer Cave. It has the world’s largest cave passage open to the public (it used to be the world’s largest cave entrance full stop until 2009 when Sơn Đoòng cave was discovered in Vietnam, however special permits are required to visit). The main entrance of Deer Cave measures a whopping 14 m (479 ft) tall and the cave is 4.1 km (2.5 miles) long.
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To reach Deer Cave, it’s a 9km round trip through the jungle on raised boardwalks and when you come face to face with the entrance, the vast size of it is mind blowing. The name “Deer Cave” derived from the fact deer used to come and shelter here. Visually stunning, the main chamber is partially lit by sunlight and is gorgeous. Once inside the cave, due to its size we spent nearly two hours walking 800 metres along boardwalks. But we didn’t visit the cave purely for its size, we wanted to view the bat exodus which happens at dusk!
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​​It is reputed that 3 million bats call this cave home and with 12 different species found here, it’s the highest number of bat species occupying a single cave ever recorded. The bats “home” means they sleep and poop here, so with 3 million bats’ worth of bat poop (known as guano) all along the cave floor, steps and handrails, not only can this be a bit pungent in places, but you really want to avoid touching the handrails when walking around!
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Towards the back of the cave, we turned and saw the famous “Abraham Lincoln” view which is appropriately named as the jutting rock looks like the President’s profile.

The time was now 5pm which is when the bats were due to leave the cave to hunt for insects; it is said they consume 15 tonnes of mosquitos every evening which is why there isn’t a mosquito problem in Mulu.

​Unfortunately for us though, not tonight; it had just started to rain and bats won’t hunt in the rain; it’s believed the rain interferes with their sonar, the method they use to hunt. We remained hopeful and sat waiting for 45 minutes, willing the rain to stop and hoping our trip to see this fascinating sight was worth it … alas, no. No bats tonight, but we did see a lovely rainbow cast over the entrance to the cave and across the trees! Swallows also live in the cave and would randomly fly out whilst we were waiting for the bats, teasing us as to whether we were looking at a bat or a bird. This quickly became our new game; “bat or bird”, simple pleasure eh!
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Tip: Wear walking boots or good non-slip shoes; bat guano is slippery.
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When there is no rain, millions of bats can be seen flying out of the entrance to Deer Cave
Lang Cave

​Lang Cave is next to Deer cave, is the smallest at Mulu and is included in the tour with its larger more famous neighbour. It was named after a guide who led an expedition in the late 70s to research the caves in Mulu and has some interesting stalactites (down) and stalagmite (up) formations such as “the jellyfish”. Every now and then, I would feel the dripping water on my head from one of them. Inside, there is a looped boardwalk but, because the cave isn’t very big, it only took us around 30 minutes to walk 280 metres. 
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The "jellyfish" stalactite formation in Lang Cave
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Wind Cave & Clearwater Cave
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Both of these caves are accessible by a short trip up the jungle river in a longboat which was so much fun; passing stunning views of dense trees and feeling the cool breeze on my face made me smile all the way.
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​Wind Cave was given its name because of the cool breeze that flows through it and this was the first cave we visited on our morning trip. There is a sloped wooden boardwalk to the entrance of this 350 metre long cave and we spent about an hour in total walking along the looped boardwalk marvelling at the beautiful stalagmite and stalactite formations. It has several chambers however King’s Chamber is the one people are here to see which is filled with huge and impressive stalactites and stalagmites. Our mouths fell open when we stepped into this chamber! Alas photographs simply do not do this cave justice.
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Clearwater Cave is vast and only a tiny segment is open to casual visitors, other sections are only open to adventure cavers. Originally it was thought that Clearwater cave was 27km long; that was up until 2005 when it was extended to 129.5km! That isn’t a typo – this cave is at least one hundred and twenty nine km long! It is the world’s largest cave by volume of air and has the world’s longest underground river.

Be warned; there are 200 steps to walk up to reach the cave entrance and, as we climbed, I was thinking to myself “I hope this cave is worth it”. Goodness me it definitely was! 
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What a feast for the eyes; if you like your caves, you will love Clearwater! 
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Clearwater Cave is split into two so we started off by looking at Lady Cave, a small section with impressive stalagmite and stalactites. There was a sign that told us that the roof of this cave had fallen through, but where had the rocks gone? No one knows so we can only guess that there is a deeper crevasse below so far down no one can see. 
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​When we walked over to Clearwater, at the entrance was the fascinating Green Leaf Plant indigenous only to this cave, it is literally a plant that has one leaf but it was a stunning contrast against the granite surface.

​All the way through the cave, we marvelled at the formations which have been carved out by a river that used to run through this section. Parts of Clearwater Cave are still being formed by the world’s longest underground river that rushes through and when you are near it, the noise is so loud you can hardly hear the person talking next to you. As we listened to the roar of the river, I turned and looked up at the light streaming through an opening onto lush green trees high up. Wow, this cave was mighty impressive. Yet again, photos do not do this wonder of nature any justice.

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​When we had finished the loop around, I didn’t mind the 200 steps back down as I knew what was waiting at the bottom … a swim in the jungle river! Amazing! How often do you get the opportunity to swim in jungle river? This one had a fun current sweeping through it!
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The sunlight was beaming through the trees forming a pool of golden light, it was a spectacular vision and the water was fresh and cooling in the humid heat of midday. There had been a heavy rainfall recently so the river was brown due to the heavy sediment washed down from the mountain.

After my visit to Clearwater, on the longboat journey back to the National Park entrance, I felt so privileged to be there at that moment in time looking at all the pristine nature surrounding me. It is safe to say I was in a happy place!
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Tip: Take your bathers with you if you want to swim in the river. If you forget and want to swim and don’t have a tour in the afternoon, then do as I did and jump in fully clothed! You can dry your clothes when you are back at your accommodation so just go for it!

 “The Fast Lane” at Langang Cave

The newest of the caves opened to the public in 2006, and involved a short longboat ride down the river, followed by a 1km walk through a stony jungle path. Jasper was our guide and he was phenomenal; a wealth of knowledge and information, and although we were told to allow three hours for the tour, we ended up returning after four hours.

Jasper told stories of his Shaman grandfather of the Dayak tribe back in Kuching and how, when he was younger, his family sent him into the jungle to learn how to survive. He would spend some time here sleeping, hunting, eating and said the jungle had been everything to him; his grocery store, his pharmacy; his bedroom. He relayed stories of plants and their medicinal purposes and shared Shaman beliefs. We were fascinated listening to him and wanted to hear more.
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Along the stony path, Jasper pointed out a natural pepper plant and ginger plant. If you thought bats only sleep in caves – think again! Jasper found a tiny bat curled up inside the leaf of a plant!
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Look at this tiny little bat curled up in the leaf of a plant
You don’t have to worry about leeches in Mulu; apparently only forests with good nutrition in the ground have them and Mulu doesn’t fit into this category. Ironwood trees have 6ft high roots dangling so they can get air. We saw one which had fallen over, it was so large I thought it was a rock.
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An Ironwood tree has it's roots on the outside so they can get air
​Once in the cave we walked 1.5km through a long channel and saw fossil shells in the rock from when Borneo was at the bottom of the sea millions of years ago. Jasper showed us moon-milk; a fibrous mineral formation created when bacteria breaks down calcite, the main component of limestone.
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Moonmilk - a fibrous mineral formation
​Jasper also pointed out amazing cave critters such as huntsman spiders, blind crabs, various bat families and a Hairy Mary whose bite is so venomous it can kill a human!
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Huntsman spider
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A blind crab inside the cave
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​However it was the 1.5 million year old stalactites that make Fast Lane so visually stunning, and it’s still being discovered. At times, it looked as though we were walking on the surface of the moon due to the formations of the cave. Breathtaking … simply breathtaking!
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The surface of the moon? Or an underground cave?

​We came to a point in the cave where Jasper wanted us to experience its true darkness. We stood still, turned off our torches and for a couple of minutes were in total blindness. Usually in the dark, our eyes will become accustomed to the low light, but not here! I waved my hand in front of my face and couldn’t see a darn thing, we really were in total blackness and I couldn’t help but wonder what it would be like to become stuck in here for any reason if a torch broke! Seriously scary and disorientating, and I was grateful when we turned our torches back on again.
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Night walk – for more critters

During our night walk, we saw a lot of critters, it was awesome! Unfortunately, I cannot tell you all of their names as (sadly) our guide rushed our group of 11 through with hardly enough time for us to photograph. He would hurry us along and because we were at the back with three other people who were just as interested in photography as us, we missed everything he said. As we have done a few jungle night walks in the past, we did notify the Park that we felt the group size was too large and the pace was too fast so they will hopefully address this in the future.
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I can tell you that we saw stick insects, a few different frogs, a couple of really ugly crickets, a black spider, a huge furry caterpillar, a teeny tiny frog that was in a tube making a noise, a bright red sleeping bird (we couldn’t tell what it was because its head was buried in its breast), copulating critters, a Draco Draco lizard (gliding lizard), hammerhead leach and a slug-eating snake. Apologies that I am unable to actually name exactly the type of critters we saw.
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Mulu Canopy Walk – head for heights anyone?

If you have ever wondered what it is like to be high off the jungle floor in the tree top canopy, then this two hour tour is for you! Unfortunately, I have a huge fear of heights so attempting this walk was a big-deal for me. If you want to find out how I survived, read our post Mulu Canopy Walk – In the Face of Fear.
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The Skywalk as it is known. It’s “the world’s longest tree based canopy walk” and is basically a suspended walkway made from wooden planks and ropes in the National Park. To reach the canopy tower, it’s a 30 minute walk along jungle boardwalks spotting critters along the way and we saw stick insects that really were true to their name-sake, this led to our second jungle game “stick … or insect!”. The simple games you play when nature is your only television!
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Can you tell which is the stick and which is the insect?
The canopy walk is 480 metres along across 16 bridges, 25 metre high of the jungle floor and is an exhilarating (or petrifying, depending on whether or not you like heights and wobbly bridges) adventure through the treetops. The views (according to Sy) were beautiful and it felt so surreal to be in amongst the trees; for someone with a fear of heights, do not look down!
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Despite not liking heights (or bridges), I would definitely recommend the Canopy Walk! Why? Simply because this is nature at its finest and it was wonderful to be in the middle of it instead of on the outside looking up.
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Canopy Walk entrance
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All smiles from Sy ... I'm just concentrating on getting across!
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Our entire time at Mulu was outstanding. It didn’t matter to us that we were rained on and had to walk through flooded paths, this was part of the jungle charm. The scenery, noises, experiences, caves and critters outweigh being constantly wet by a gazillion to one. This remote part of the world should be a place any hiker, nature lover, geologist or adventure-seeker should visit.

Walking boots or walking sandals?
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​In a rainforest, typically it will rain every day but the amount of rain generally depends on the time of year. At the beginning of our jungle adventure in March when there is usually less rain, I was glad I wore my walking boots and would have said these were the best option for walking up and down steps and through slippery caves. Then we had hours of torrential rainfall which flooded various paths that we had to walk through and water reached my calfs, meaning my walking boots were completely submerged in water and took days to dry. Sy, on the other hand, wore his walking sandals which were dry within hours.

​When planning your trip to the jungle, if there have been floods or you are here during the wetter months of October – January, May and June, then sandals will be the most versatile option. If you have room for both … perfect!

Essential tips for the jungle
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  • Drink plenty of water as you will sweat! (Well, men will sweat and women will sparkle!). 
  • Always wear sensible walking non-slip shoes – not flip flops! It can (and often does) rain torrentially without warning and walking 4.8km back from Deer Cave in wet flip flops won’t be a lot of fun!
  • Wear quick-drying clothes; it doesn’t have to be walking shorts/trousers, you can wear sports or running gear or board shorts – they are all made from quick-drying material and are perfect for the jungle.
  • Take a raincoat or poncho – for the same reason! If you don’t mind getting wet then no worries (we didn’t take a jacket for Deer Cave and the heaven’s opened; we didn’t mind as we knew we could hang up our clothes to dry when we were back at our homestay but that was our choice).
  • Consider a Waterproof Bag – then you can keep your valuables dry and not have to worry about the downpours. 
  • Always carry a torch with you; the caves are dark and can be slippery.


How to get to Mulu National Park
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Mulu is in the Sarawak region of Malaysian Borneo and is only accessible by a short 30 minute flight with MASwings from Miri. You can also fly from Kota Kinabalu, Kuching and other places in Borneo but you may have a brief stop in Miri). There are daily flights but at limited times.

Where to eat and refilling your water bottles
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There is a restaurant onsite at the National Park serving Asian and Western food, but if you want to support the local people and save a few ringgit, Mulu Cave-fe (do you like their pun on the name?) have a good menu and serve lovely Malay food. For your time in this tropical rainforest you need to drink plenty of water which means buying bottled water. If, like me, you are concerned about plastic and the environment, then save your water bottles and refill them for only RM3 at Sweetwater Café which is 20 metres away from the park entrance (they also serve cheap local food). We would fill ours up in the morning, go on our activity then fill them up again at lunchtime and again in the evening. ​

Where to stay – no wi-fi, for that “get away from it all” experience

If you are looking for budget accommodation, there are a number of homestays you can choose from. We stayed with Mulu Backpackers Homestay which is a 15 minute walk from the National Park entrance. We found the owners to be very friendly, efficient and helpful and, if you are on a budget, we would definitely recommend you stay here and check out reviews on Trip Advisor.

Where to stay – with wi-fi
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There are deluxe, garden bungalows, longhouses or hostel options on-site at Mulu Park and you can buy wi-fi. 

The Mulu Marriot Resort is a few km’s away from the Park entrance but they arrange on-demand pick-ups and drops offs, wi-fi is free at this hotel. These are the only two options for wi-fi in Mulu.

Don't forget that you can book hotels through our website as we have an affiliate partnership with Booking.com. Click here to visit our Hotel Booking Page then search as normal. There is no extra cost to you but you will be helping us!

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If you are travelling around Asia, we recommend you check bus, boat and train schedules ahead of time with 12Go Asia website. You can also book your tickets in advance online (as we did) to save time and hassle.

If you like this post, please Pin & share it!
Mulu National Park is the perfect place to visit for lovers of hiking, jungle walks, geology, caves and of course critters! Check out our exciting 4 day adventure!
14 Comments
Kate and Kris link
4/8/2017 04:28:24 am

Looks amazing. We went to Borneo a few years ago and visited some of the national parks on Sabah, but not on Sarawak. The caves look cool. Love the little bats. Did you notice the overly tight outfits that the national park staff wore?

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Maria link
4/8/2017 10:20:25 am

Too bad you didn't see the big fly-out of the bats, but good you saw so many other critters. The caves actually look pretty cool! But wow - so not for me! I tend to stay away from anything that involves caves or creepy crawlies when I'm traveling. We're all different I suppose :D

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Ruth link
4/8/2017 03:15:47 pm

This looks like a lost world! I have been to jungles in Central and South America and it is a rush of adrenaline to walk or boat around. I really enjoy adventures like this. For the past years, I have been visiting urban destinations but I sure miss being in contact with the natural world. #feetdotravel

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Stephanie (1AdventureTraveler) link
4/8/2017 03:28:21 pm

How amazing Mulu National Park looks. This is my kind of place. I would love all the hikes including the caves plus taking a night hike. I agree 11 people for that hike is to many. Stunning photos! I pinned this for later use when I visit someday! Thanks for sharing! #feetdotravel

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Marcelle link
5/8/2017 09:15:53 am

I can remember the deafening sound of frogs and cicadas of the jungle in Borneo! It's definitively a + that Mulu National Park's soil isn't rich enough for leeches. I hate these 'things' after I had the worst experience with seven bloodsuckers on one and five on the other foot in Sumatra. Boots would have been great ...

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Paul and Carole link
5/8/2017 11:22:32 am

This looks a great adventure, loved how you just cooled off in the river when you got there! I think I would of freaked out when the torches went off and in complete darkness too. So frustrating on organised tours when you are whizzed through. Like you we are always at the back trying to get photos.. Great tips about the shoes too! #feetdotravel

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Garth link
6/8/2017 02:50:43 pm

Wow what a lovely adventure! It's difficult to get a sense of scale from the photos, but I'll take your word they are massive. Love the silhouette of Abraham Lincoln it really does look like him! The bats look cute, but that spider is gross! The canopy walk looks like fun though. Looks like a brilliant place to visit!

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Urska link
7/8/2017 07:34:00 am

Wow, that looks amazing! Would love to visit Mulu National Park one day, looks like a perfect place for a hiking-jungle adventure :)

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sandy & Vyjay
8/8/2017 01:09:32 am

Mulu National Park is indeed a revelation. Nature at its best. The caves look really mysterious and i am sure one needs to experience the thrill to really appreciate the beauty. The Canopy Walk reminded me of a similar one we did in Rwanda, Africa a couple of months back. It is a great feeling to hang in mid air in the midst of nature, of course it can be terrifying as well !

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Tracy link
8/8/2017 06:03:19 am

Looks amazing Angie! Would enjoy this for sure - the caves, the bats and all the critters!!! After experiencing part of Malaysia I just want to see more and Borneo is high on my wish list!! How long would you recommend we spend in Borneo? (Ideally 3 months but as a minimum?)

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Rob+Ann @TravelLatte(.net) link
10/8/2017 08:49:57 pm

What a great post! You have us ready for adventure! The jungle looks amazing, as does the cave. (Ok, not the spider, though!) We're impressed with the diversity of the park, not just in plants and animals, but in things to do/see. Definitely taking notes here, and already thinking about shuffling some plans around to go see Mulu! #FeetDoTravel

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James link
11/8/2017 11:13:37 am

I love the bridge that you have to cross to enter the Mulu National Park. The photo you shared is perfect for Instagram, exactly the shot I love to take. You saw a lot of amazing wildlife, so many pictures, did the bats attack you when you were in the dark cave? I think I'd find the 480 canopy bridge petrifying but Sy didn't seem too worried about crossing it!

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Shona @ paraphernalia.co link
12/8/2017 07:31:08 am

I thoroughly enjoyed reading this post. So detailed and engaging, I felt like I was there. Some of the critters you came across I'd be happy not to see , but what an array of nightlife. Such a shame you didn't see the bats, but you did see so much. Pinned for later & stumbled to share!

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Agness of aTukTuk link
13/9/2017 11:27:14 am

The Mulu National Park seems so picturesque and breathtaking. When's the best time of the year to explore it?

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