I had always wanted to visit Uluru; the heart of Australia’s red centre. It’s a long way from anywhere and not easy to reach, but this didn’t stop me … it made me even more determined to go. Flying into the area for my first sighting of its deep orange and red colours were mesmerizing.
Uluru or Ayres Rock as it’s also known is located in Uluru Kata Tjuta National Park, in the Northern Territory of Australia. This semi-arid red desert is vast. With only 150-280mm of rainfall per year, bush fires are common whether “controlled” or accidental by someone dropping a careless cigarette.
Uluru is famous for its sandstone monolith bearing the same name, but its more than just an iconic big red rock. It tells a story of one of the oldest living cultures dating back thousands of years, a culture that has been lost to “modern day” Australia as we know it.
If you want to know the “real Australia”, you need to visit Uluru … and what a story it has to tell.
Uluru or Ayres Rock as it’s also known is located in Uluru Kata Tjuta National Park, in the Northern Territory of Australia. This semi-arid red desert is vast. With only 150-280mm of rainfall per year, bush fires are common whether “controlled” or accidental by someone dropping a careless cigarette.
Uluru is famous for its sandstone monolith bearing the same name, but its more than just an iconic big red rock. It tells a story of one of the oldest living cultures dating back thousands of years, a culture that has been lost to “modern day” Australia as we know it.
If you want to know the “real Australia”, you need to visit Uluru … and what a story it has to tell.
The Anangu are the indigenous people of central Australia
Indigenous people of Australia
To understand the significance of Uluru, you have to start with the indigenous people of central Australia. For 50,000 years the Anangu have lived off this land, Anangu means “people” in their native language of Pitjantjatjara (Pit-jan-ja-jarra)). Experts say they are the oldest living people on earth.
The British began to colonize Australia from 1788 but the Anangu remained undisturbed for decades. In the 1900’s, white settlement began to encroach on their traditional land and began claiming it as theirs. Despite being here for thousands of years before British colonization lead to “modern day Australia”, it wasn’t until 27 May 1967 that the Anangu were recognised as Australian citizens. In a referendum, 90.77% of the population voted “yes”, they should be given citizenship.
Yes, you read that right, the indigenous people of Australia were not recognized as true citizens of their own country. They had very few (if any) rights, and were subjected to years of segregation. I have gone into more detail regarding Australia’s dark history and the persecution of the Anangu people at the bottom of this post. I urge you to read that section as it’s an important part of modern history is truly shocking!
To understand the significance of Uluru, you have to start with the indigenous people of central Australia. For 50,000 years the Anangu have lived off this land, Anangu means “people” in their native language of Pitjantjatjara (Pit-jan-ja-jarra)). Experts say they are the oldest living people on earth.
The British began to colonize Australia from 1788 but the Anangu remained undisturbed for decades. In the 1900’s, white settlement began to encroach on their traditional land and began claiming it as theirs. Despite being here for thousands of years before British colonization lead to “modern day Australia”, it wasn’t until 27 May 1967 that the Anangu were recognised as Australian citizens. In a referendum, 90.77% of the population voted “yes”, they should be given citizenship.
Yes, you read that right, the indigenous people of Australia were not recognized as true citizens of their own country. They had very few (if any) rights, and were subjected to years of segregation. I have gone into more detail regarding Australia’s dark history and the persecution of the Anangu people at the bottom of this post. I urge you to read that section as it’s an important part of modern history is truly shocking!
Anangu children of Uluru
The Cultural Centre at Uluru is fantastic and I learnt so much about these semi-nomadic-hunter-gatherers. It was fascinating to hear about their laws, beliefs, behaviour, music, art, social interaction, how they hunt and live off the land. Tjukurpa (Chook-or-pa) is Anangu law and the foundation of their culture which explains existence and guides their daily life.
Tjukurpa answers the questions "how was the world and all life created and by whom". It explains the relationship between people, plants, animals and the land's physical features. It provides rules for behaviour, for living together, for caring for each other and respecting the land.
Tjukurpa answers the questions "how was the world and all life created and by whom". It explains the relationship between people, plants, animals and the land's physical features. It provides rules for behaviour, for living together, for caring for each other and respecting the land.
Aboriginal Art is an important part of the Anangu culture
Aboriginal Art I purchased in Australia
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Aboriginal Art purchased in Australia
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The boomerang I bought in Australia that used to hang on my wall (it's now stored away for when we find a new home)
We saw a witchetty bush where the witchetty grubs live, good old fashioned bush tucker! They are an excellent source of protein so the women would forage for them. There’s as much protein in one witchetty grub as there is in a 250g steak – sorry, but I would prefer a steak.
We were told about the bloodwood eucalyptus tree which is used for food and medicine. A common use is to stop infection; a lot of the initiation ceremonies were quite painful and could leave wounds. Punishments were severe including a spear through the arm for a first "warning" and a second "warning" would be a spear through the leg. Harsh? Maybe, but it would stop you making the same mistake twice!
Aboriginal food includes witchetty grubs
Young boys undergo initiation ceremonies to earn the right to learn. They are taught how to hunt red kangaroos (ma!u), emus (ka!aya- kah-lay-ah) and large lizards etc. First they learn the habitat of these animals, how to recognise their tracks and the kind of country they like. They learn how to make and use tools and weapons such as spears (kulata) and fighting clubs (tjutinypa). They are taught how to make spear throwers (miru) and how to use this tool to make fire, and how to carry fire from place to place.
Girls are taught the proper way to forage for food, how it is to be prepared, cooked and eaten. They learn about bush food, how to read tracks, where to look for edible grubs, honey ants, bush figs and plums and how to separate and grind seeds. Women know about seasons cycles, habitats of animals and plants, and how to use bush plants for medicine. Correct marriage choices and appropriate behaviour is also taught (shame we aren’t taught this as well!)
Even though different technologies are used in their life today, the values and customs are still taught.
Girls are taught the proper way to forage for food, how it is to be prepared, cooked and eaten. They learn about bush food, how to read tracks, where to look for edible grubs, honey ants, bush figs and plums and how to separate and grind seeds. Women know about seasons cycles, habitats of animals and plants, and how to use bush plants for medicine. Correct marriage choices and appropriate behaviour is also taught (shame we aren’t taught this as well!)
Even though different technologies are used in their life today, the values and customs are still taught.
Anangu women of Uluru, central Australia
In the Cultural Centre there was a screen showing Anangu women singing and dancing in their traditional manner. Singing is used as a way to communicate to each other, to teach children, and they sing whilst painting each other's bodies. I couldn’t help but notice the women looked very weathered with age, evidence of living under the harsh sun was etched onto their faces and skin.
Watching their behaviour and the way they interacted showed me a way of life I couldn't even begin to imagine. I couldn't help but think that every Australian and visitor to this country should learn the true history of its indigenous people, the Anangu culture, and how they survived for millennia off this harsh yet beautiful land. I found it fascinating.
Feelings of guilt swept over me with what our ancestors have done. We changed this country beyond recognition. The Anangu have been persecuted for over 200 years and it saddens me that we didn’t respect their culture. The Anangu live on what nature has provided and use it in an incredible way; their diet of grubs, leaves, plums and meat is nutritious. They know which trees and plants to use as medicine, a natural way that has worked for thousands of years. Our culture just pops to the pharmacy to buy an unnatural product which hasn’t been around for anywhere near as long.
Watching their behaviour and the way they interacted showed me a way of life I couldn't even begin to imagine. I couldn't help but think that every Australian and visitor to this country should learn the true history of its indigenous people, the Anangu culture, and how they survived for millennia off this harsh yet beautiful land. I found it fascinating.
Feelings of guilt swept over me with what our ancestors have done. We changed this country beyond recognition. The Anangu have been persecuted for over 200 years and it saddens me that we didn’t respect their culture. The Anangu live on what nature has provided and use it in an incredible way; their diet of grubs, leaves, plums and meat is nutritious. They know which trees and plants to use as medicine, a natural way that has worked for thousands of years. Our culture just pops to the pharmacy to buy an unnatural product which hasn’t been around for anywhere near as long.
My view flying into Uluru
What actually is Uluru?
Uluru is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, 335km away from its nearest town, Alice Springs. Its statistics are impressive; a circumference of 9.4km, 2.4km long and 1.6km wide standing 348m high and 867m above sea level, protruding at an 83° angle out of the earth. Geologists believe it continues 7,000 metres below the surface.
Uluru is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, 335km away from its nearest town, Alice Springs. Its statistics are impressive; a circumference of 9.4km, 2.4km long and 1.6km wide standing 348m high and 867m above sea level, protruding at an 83° angle out of the earth. Geologists believe it continues 7,000 metres below the surface.
Lil' ol' me on the huge monolith that is Uluru
Uluru is a monolith of terracotta coloured akrose sandstone. Its true colour is grey but Uluru’s famous red comes from the iron minerals in the rock which, when weathered by water and oxygen, rusts like iron. When you look at the different layers it is visible, if you see a grey patch, its where the "rusting' has broken away and exposed the natural colour.
For the past 50,000 years the Anangu have survived in an extremely harsh environment and this land was their only source of sustenance. They would preserve certain portions of their land as sacred sites, Uluru is one of them.
For the past 50,000 years the Anangu have survived in an extremely harsh environment and this land was their only source of sustenance. They would preserve certain portions of their land as sacred sites, Uluru is one of them.
Explorer Ernest Giles
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Sir Henry Ayres
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There is no literal translation for its name, but it is often referred to as Ayers Rock because in 1873, surveyor William Gosse “found” Uluru and named it after Sir Henry Ayres, the Chief Secretary of South Australia. It was originally sighted six months earlier by the explorer Ernest Giles who viewed it through a telescope when he was at Kings Canyon, however he thought it was just a sand pile.
I will always insist on referring to this area as Uluru, because that is the traditional Aboriginal name.
I will always insist on referring to this area as Uluru, because that is the traditional Aboriginal name.
To climb, or not to climb Uluru?
To the Anangu, Uluru is sacred. An object of worship, only the initiated are permitted to climb. William Gosse was the first non-aboriginal to climb Uluru which would have upset the Anangu people. People that climb are called “minga” which means “ant” as this is what tourists look like; little ants marching up a mound in a line.
To the Anangu, Uluru is sacred. An object of worship, only the initiated are permitted to climb. William Gosse was the first non-aboriginal to climb Uluru which would have upset the Anangu people. People that climb are called “minga” which means “ant” as this is what tourists look like; little ants marching up a mound in a line.
The climbing route of Uluru - don't you agree that people look like tiny ants?
In 1950 Uluru and the surrounding areas were declared a National Park and this is when tourists begun to climb. On 1 November 2017, a vote was passed to ban tourists from climbing which came into effect on 26 October 2019.
I respected Anangu culture and didn't climb Uluru, instead I did the base walk. Looking up, I was able to see how tall it really is
In October 1985, after 35 years of campaigning, the Anangu were recognised by Commonwealth Law as its traditional owners of Uluru. The Governor General and Minister for Aboriginal Affairs presented the title deeds to the traditional owners and handed the land back in a special ceremony.
Although Anangu own the land, they work together with Parks Australia and have leased it for 99 years to jointly manage Uluru and Kata Tjuta. This allows tourists to share its beauty, learn more about the Anangu culture and hopefully respect it.
Although Anangu own the land, they work together with Parks Australia and have leased it for 99 years to jointly manage Uluru and Kata Tjuta. This allows tourists to share its beauty, learn more about the Anangu culture and hopefully respect it.
I had three days of laughter with this crew and I would thoroughly recommend Adventure Tours.
I visited Uluru as part of a tour with Adventure Tours and chose to walk around the 9.4km base, disrespecting a local culture is not why I travel. We were a group of nine girls and it was excellent; we walked, we talked and we laughed. It was a scorching hot day (standard!) and viewing the impressions etched into the rock and feeling so small against its sheer height was humbling.
Uluru Base Walk has interesting impressions etched into the rock
Can you see a skull?
I walked around Uluru base with these awesome people
After the base walk we did the 2km "Mala" route. The walk passes holes, valleys, overhangs and cave like rock formations which offered shelter to the Mala people, ancestors to the Anangu.
Paintings etched into the stone which tell stories. When a tribe would inhabit a land, the male tribe leader would draw around his hand on the rock to show that this land was now inhabited. If another tribe couldn't survive on their land anymore and would need to go to another tribe's land, the leader of this "foreign" tribe would draw his hand next to the other leader's hand as a form of communication, this was their way of letting the tribe know someone else was on their land but posed no threat. This is how they asked "please don't spear me!" If the land-owner would see this "foreigner" after "reading" the rock, he would start communicating with him which ended by shaking each other's penis. We couldn’t help but wonder how the women greeted each other!
Paintings etched into the stone which tell stories. When a tribe would inhabit a land, the male tribe leader would draw around his hand on the rock to show that this land was now inhabited. If another tribe couldn't survive on their land anymore and would need to go to another tribe's land, the leader of this "foreign" tribe would draw his hand next to the other leader's hand as a form of communication, this was their way of letting the tribe know someone else was on their land but posed no threat. This is how they asked "please don't spear me!" If the land-owner would see this "foreigner" after "reading" the rock, he would start communicating with him which ended by shaking each other's penis. We couldn’t help but wonder how the women greeted each other!
Uluru Base Walk - Aboriginal rock paintings
Sunset and sunrise at Uluru
Our tour took us to Uluru firstly for sunset, and for sunrise the next morning. It just has to be done. I won’t lie, it’s very popular and you will not be alone. Sunsets in this area can be spectacular, sadly on my visit I wouldn’t put it into this category, but it was still amazing to be here. Our driver popped open a bottle of champagne for the occasion and we were all in high spirits, why wouldn’t we be? We were visiting Uluru for sunset, a highlight of anyone’s trip!
Our tour took us to Uluru firstly for sunset, and for sunrise the next morning. It just has to be done. I won’t lie, it’s very popular and you will not be alone. Sunsets in this area can be spectacular, sadly on my visit I wouldn’t put it into this category, but it was still amazing to be here. Our driver popped open a bottle of champagne for the occasion and we were all in high spirits, why wouldn’t we be? We were visiting Uluru for sunset, a highlight of anyone’s trip!
Sunset at Uluru - a highlight of anyone's trip!
The next morning, I will admit the 5am wake up call was a bit harsh, but for sunrise at one of the world’s most iconic natural wonders, you suck it up. During sunrise, you see its true colours; the grey and dark red turns into the infamous bright red/orange as the sun hits the sandstone. A pretty good start to the day!
Uluru at Sunrise is also a highlight of anyone's trip, it's when you can see the rock's true colours
Sunrise at Uluru
Kata Tjuta also known as “The Olgas”
Kata Tjuta is 25km west of Uluru and both were formed at the same time. Around 650 million years ago, the earth moved and a mountain was made. Around 300 million years later another earth movement occurred pushing the hardened layers upwards, forming the rocks as we know it today.
Kata Tjuta is 25km west of Uluru and both were formed at the same time. Around 650 million years ago, the earth moved and a mountain was made. Around 300 million years later another earth movement occurred pushing the hardened layers upwards, forming the rocks as we know it today.
Baron Ferdinand von Mueller who named the Olgas after Queen Olga of Wurttenerg
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Queen Olga of Wurttenerg whom "the Olgas" were named after
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Kata Tjuta (Kah-tah Choor-ta) means “many heads”; whereas Uluru is one giant bolder, Kata Tjuta has 36 different domes. Referred to as the Olgas, its highest point is Mount Olga which were “discovered” in 1872 by explorer Ernest Giles. Mount Olga was named in honour of Queen Olga of Wurttenberg by order of Baron Ferdinand von Mueller, a German government botanist for the colony of Victoria. Queen Olga and her husband had given Mueller his Baron title, and this was his way of repaying the compliment. Absolutely nothing to do with Anangu culture.
Kata Tjuta "the Olgas" meaning many heads
Walpa Gorge walk at Kata Tjuta
The area is more scenic and less crowded than its famous neighbour. Standing next to the 546m beautiful tall red rock was so impressive, I felt microscopic.
As I walked the Walpa Gorge and through the valley of Kata Tjuta, my imagination ran away with me and I wondered if it would feel this way to walk in the “Lord of the Rings”. Its natural beauty is unbeatable.
There was a small bench to sit for quiet reflection, the perfect place to absorb the spiritual importance of this area to the Anangu people. Kata Tjuta is very under-rated and extremely impressive.
Driving through a bush fire
We had to leave the National Park early because a bush fire was started by a careless cigarette. We watched in amazement as the fire spread across the landscape, it was on both sides of the road and we had to drive through it. Even with all the windows wound up we could feel the heat. It was so hot and intense, it felt bizarre to actually drive through a fire. We could see the fire sparks as new blades of grass started to burn making it spread further and faster.
We had to leave the National Park early because a bush fire was started by a careless cigarette. We watched in amazement as the fire spread across the landscape, it was on both sides of the road and we had to drive through it. Even with all the windows wound up we could feel the heat. It was so hot and intense, it felt bizarre to actually drive through a fire. We could see the fire sparks as new blades of grass started to burn making it spread further and faster.
Driving through a bush fire at Uluru Kata Tjuta National Park
Driving through a bush fire, even with the windows wound up we could feel the heat
Some fires are purposely lit, known as "controlled fires". They are lit in the winter/spring months so when the sun starts a natural fire in the spring/summer, the already burnt bark acts as a barrier and helps keep the fire from spreading further. Trees don’t die, they are merely coated and it’s amazing to see miles and miles off burnt grass and trees with green leaves. Even more bizarre to see newly sprouted green shoots of bushes and trees. Mother Nature really is amazing the way she looks after the planet by creating life from disaster. This evolutionary cycle is visually apparent in the red centre.
New green growth after a controlled bush fire.
Sadly a lot of Australia’s indigenous insects have been wiped out due to the introduction of Buffalo Grass which was believed to be good food for cattle. Guess what? Cows prefer natural grass so it’s not eaten.
Insects usually bury underground during a bush fire and stay there until the fire passes over them, afterwards, they come out of their hole and carry on as if nothing has happened. Unfortunately, buffalo grass burns hotter and longer than normal grass and, as the insects couldn’t stay underground for the length of time the grass was burning, they were either suffocated or burnt. Buffalo grass is also very difficult to kill off; it can't be poisoned as this would kill the natural grass growing around it, so Australians are stuck with it.
Sleeping in the Outback
On our tour, one night we had the option of sleeping under the stars. I could either have the comfort of a tent, or lay in a swag around a camp fire amidst the stars. I chose the latter and I wasn’t the only one.
A swag is a portable waterproof canvas sleeping bag with a foam mattress inside a zipped up cover. I set up my sleeping bag and within minutes we were all asleep. It was a lovely warm night but not too warm, just right for snuggling into your sleeping bag without being hot. The night was still and peaceful, absolutely no noise from crickets or any other bush creature!
Insects usually bury underground during a bush fire and stay there until the fire passes over them, afterwards, they come out of their hole and carry on as if nothing has happened. Unfortunately, buffalo grass burns hotter and longer than normal grass and, as the insects couldn’t stay underground for the length of time the grass was burning, they were either suffocated or burnt. Buffalo grass is also very difficult to kill off; it can't be poisoned as this would kill the natural grass growing around it, so Australians are stuck with it.
Sleeping in the Outback
On our tour, one night we had the option of sleeping under the stars. I could either have the comfort of a tent, or lay in a swag around a camp fire amidst the stars. I chose the latter and I wasn’t the only one.
A swag is a portable waterproof canvas sleeping bag with a foam mattress inside a zipped up cover. I set up my sleeping bag and within minutes we were all asleep. It was a lovely warm night but not too warm, just right for snuggling into your sleeping bag without being hot. The night was still and peaceful, absolutely no noise from crickets or any other bush creature!
I took a helicopter ride over Kings Canyon
Helicopter ride over King’s Canyon
Watarrka National Park is about three hours from Uluru and at its centre is Kings Canyon, named after Kings Creek. Both Kings Canyon and Kings Creek were named in 1872 by that good old explorer Ernest Giles, after his friend Fielder King. This area of land has been inhabited by the Luritja Aboriginal people for at least 20,000 years.
Kings Canyon is a 100 metre high gorge enclosed by sheer walls, its rubbly base is Carmichael sandstone deposited over 440 million years ago.
What better way to see this vast area than with a 15 minute helicopter flight? Yes I was a backpacker blowing the budget on a helicopter ride! At the time, I was swept up with the romance and beauty of this trip and thought “stuff it, the money can be repaid, the memories will last forever”.
Watarrka National Park is about three hours from Uluru and at its centre is Kings Canyon, named after Kings Creek. Both Kings Canyon and Kings Creek were named in 1872 by that good old explorer Ernest Giles, after his friend Fielder King. This area of land has been inhabited by the Luritja Aboriginal people for at least 20,000 years.
Kings Canyon is a 100 metre high gorge enclosed by sheer walls, its rubbly base is Carmichael sandstone deposited over 440 million years ago.
What better way to see this vast area than with a 15 minute helicopter flight? Yes I was a backpacker blowing the budget on a helicopter ride! At the time, I was swept up with the romance and beauty of this trip and thought “stuff it, the money can be repaid, the memories will last forever”.
Sunset helicopter flight over Kings Canyon
I was hoping to catch the sunset but it was partially cloudy with relatively low light, sadly it wasn't as spectacular as it could have been. The pilot said with low light you can see into the Canyon, and its depth and colours are more visible, with bright light all you see is the top of the Canyon.
It’s amazing to think that the canyon used to be one huge piece of rock which has cracked and grown bigger over millennia. Various boulders have fallen creating the valley at the bottom. It certainly was impressive.
It’s amazing to think that the canyon used to be one huge piece of rock which has cracked and grown bigger over millennia. Various boulders have fallen creating the valley at the bottom. It certainly was impressive.
Heart Attack Hill - this wasn't the walk for me!
The next morning, we returned for the Kings Creek Walk, a 2.6km walk tracing the bottom of the gorge. It’s always hot in this area and it was no different for this walk, but reaching the lookout point provided a rewarding view of the gorge below.
For a longer hike and if you really want to see the beauty of the Canyon, there is the Kings Canyon Rim Walk, a 6km loop. The first 300-400 metres involves a straight up incline known as “Heart Attack Hill”. This walk wasn’t the one for me!
The next morning, we returned for the Kings Creek Walk, a 2.6km walk tracing the bottom of the gorge. It’s always hot in this area and it was no different for this walk, but reaching the lookout point provided a rewarding view of the gorge below.
For a longer hike and if you really want to see the beauty of the Canyon, there is the Kings Canyon Rim Walk, a 6km loop. The first 300-400 metres involves a straight up incline known as “Heart Attack Hill”. This walk wasn’t the one for me!
Animals which live in the red centre
Being a semi-arid desert, camels thrive in the red centre but aren’t actually indigenous to the land. The first camel was introduced in 1840, but it was in 1860 that 24 camels were used to assist with building roads, and the train line which runs between Darwin and Adelaide. As they did such a sterling job, the camel business exploded and between 1870 and 1900, it is thought that 15,000 camels were estimated to have been shipped to Australia. Camels were also used for inland exploration by the likes of William Gosse and Ernest Giles.
With the introduction of motorised transport in the 1920’s, camels were no longer needed so released into the wild. Naturally, a desert is the perfect place for camels and they thrived, today, Australia has the largest population of feral herds in the world. It is suspected that over a million feral camels are now living in the Centre but are predicted to double every 8 – 10 years.
Being a semi-arid desert, camels thrive in the red centre but aren’t actually indigenous to the land. The first camel was introduced in 1840, but it was in 1860 that 24 camels were used to assist with building roads, and the train line which runs between Darwin and Adelaide. As they did such a sterling job, the camel business exploded and between 1870 and 1900, it is thought that 15,000 camels were estimated to have been shipped to Australia. Camels were also used for inland exploration by the likes of William Gosse and Ernest Giles.
With the introduction of motorised transport in the 1920’s, camels were no longer needed so released into the wild. Naturally, a desert is the perfect place for camels and they thrived, today, Australia has the largest population of feral herds in the world. It is suspected that over a million feral camels are now living in the Centre but are predicted to double every 8 – 10 years.
Wild camels have made their home in Australia's red centre,although they are not indigenous to the land
A Thorny Devil is my favourite animal of the red centre. It’s a 3-inch spiky lizard which has two penises (that’s not the reason they are my favourite!). A brown/green colour, they eat only ants and walk with their tail in the air so they look like a leaf to passing birds. They have a fat cell on their "shoulder" which is a decoy for their real head so when a bird swoops down thinking it has lunch, it really has its fat cell. They can slightly change their colour to blend in with the environment but when scared, they change to a darker colour.
We saw the thorny devil when we were driving from Uluru back to Alice Springs where our tour ended. They are quite rare to see, so when our tour driver spotted two as we were driving, we felt very privileged and happy. What a way to finish off such a magical, memorable adventure. My three day Uluru trip was a highlight of the ten months I spent in this fascinating country.
We saw the thorny devil when we were driving from Uluru back to Alice Springs where our tour ended. They are quite rare to see, so when our tour driver spotted two as we were driving, we felt very privileged and happy. What a way to finish off such a magical, memorable adventure. My three day Uluru trip was a highlight of the ten months I spent in this fascinating country.
A Thorny Devil is a 3 inch spiky lizard indigenous to Australia
A dark chapter in Australia’s history: “the Stolen Generation”
You may hear people talk about “the flaming abos” but stories of “the stolen generation” are heartbreaking. If you have watched the movies “Rabbit Proof Fence” or “Australia”, you may have an idea of this recent history.
The “Stolen Generation” were children of aboriginal descent who were removed from their families by the Australian Government, this started the segregation of indigenous Australians from “European Australians”.
Towards the end of the 19th century until well into 1970’s, any child of mixed descent (one who was born of an aboriginal woman and white man) were taken. Relationships between aboriginal women and white men were formed when men were working on construction of railways, although it is said that not all “relations” were consensual.
Children were brutally and forcibly removed from their parents, and babies were stolen from their mothers at birth. The exact number of children removed is unknown, there are reports it could be 20,000 – 25,000 and others state that Australia-wide it could be much, much higher. Many Aboriginal people are still searching for their parents or siblings and the effects are ongoing. Sadly, the trauma suffered by these children are often passed onto their own children, continuing the cycle.
As explained by Philip Knightley (an Australian journalist and critic) “The Australian government literally kidnapped these children from their parents as a matter of policy. White welfare officers, often supported by the police, would descent on Aboriginal camps, round up all the children, separate the ones with light-coloured skin, bundle them into trucks and take them away. If their parents protested they were held at bay by police”
You may hear people talk about “the flaming abos” but stories of “the stolen generation” are heartbreaking. If you have watched the movies “Rabbit Proof Fence” or “Australia”, you may have an idea of this recent history.
The “Stolen Generation” were children of aboriginal descent who were removed from their families by the Australian Government, this started the segregation of indigenous Australians from “European Australians”.
Towards the end of the 19th century until well into 1970’s, any child of mixed descent (one who was born of an aboriginal woman and white man) were taken. Relationships between aboriginal women and white men were formed when men were working on construction of railways, although it is said that not all “relations” were consensual.
Children were brutally and forcibly removed from their parents, and babies were stolen from their mothers at birth. The exact number of children removed is unknown, there are reports it could be 20,000 – 25,000 and others state that Australia-wide it could be much, much higher. Many Aboriginal people are still searching for their parents or siblings and the effects are ongoing. Sadly, the trauma suffered by these children are often passed onto their own children, continuing the cycle.
As explained by Philip Knightley (an Australian journalist and critic) “The Australian government literally kidnapped these children from their parents as a matter of policy. White welfare officers, often supported by the police, would descent on Aboriginal camps, round up all the children, separate the ones with light-coloured skin, bundle them into trucks and take them away. If their parents protested they were held at bay by police”
Residents of the Carrolup mission Photo credit: Dumbartung Aboriginal Corporation
The children were placed in orphanages, white foster homes and church-run missions. As they grew older, the intention was to educate “mixed-race” children to work in a white society, often punishing them for speaking their local indigenous language, and they were taught to regard indigenous culture as evil. Boys were trained as agricultural labourers and girls as domestic servants as these were the occupations of many Europeans, in rural areas, outside of cities at the time. Over generations, the plan was they would marry white partners and be assimilated into society.
Naturally, this didn’t work. Around the age of 18, the children were released from government control with no lineage, feeling lost. They didn’t want the material things in life, what was more important to them was their family, culture, dances, knowledge, language, spirituality and losing all of this had a huge impact.
Awareness of the “stolen generation” was raised in 1981 by historian professor Peter Read of the Australian National University and by the late 1980’s, stories were gathering attention of the media and general public.
On 26 May 1997, the “Bringing Them Home” report was tabled in Parliament. This report was the result of a national inquiry which investigated the forced removal of the Aboriginal children. It recommended that the Liberal Prime Minster John Howard, apologise to the Stolen Generation. He refused to do so however on 26 August 1999, he expressed “deep and sincere regret that indigenous Australians suffered injustices under the practices of past generations, and for the hurt and trauma that many indigenous people continue to feel as a consequence of those practices”.
Naturally, this didn’t work. Around the age of 18, the children were released from government control with no lineage, feeling lost. They didn’t want the material things in life, what was more important to them was their family, culture, dances, knowledge, language, spirituality and losing all of this had a huge impact.
Awareness of the “stolen generation” was raised in 1981 by historian professor Peter Read of the Australian National University and by the late 1980’s, stories were gathering attention of the media and general public.
On 26 May 1997, the “Bringing Them Home” report was tabled in Parliament. This report was the result of a national inquiry which investigated the forced removal of the Aboriginal children. It recommended that the Liberal Prime Minster John Howard, apologise to the Stolen Generation. He refused to do so however on 26 August 1999, he expressed “deep and sincere regret that indigenous Australians suffered injustices under the practices of past generations, and for the hurt and trauma that many indigenous people continue to feel as a consequence of those practices”.
On 26 May 1998 the first annual “National Sorry Day” was held and in 2000, activists took the issue to the United Nations Commission on Human Rights.
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On 3 December 2007 John Howard left his Prime Ministerial position after a decade of consistently rejecting calls for a formal government apology.
On 13 February 2008, the new Prime Minister Kevin Rudd issued a formal apology on behalf of the government to indigenous Australians.
On 13 February 2008, the new Prime Minister Kevin Rudd issued a formal apology on behalf of the government to indigenous Australians.
Grandmothers Against Removals rally
Alas, research has shown that aboriginal children are still being taken. Paul Ralph, CEO of KARI Aboriginal Resources says “If you don’t already know, the Stolen Generation scenario still applies today and has been here for a long time and will continue to be here”. It’s estimated that around 60 children are being taken away every month by child protection services. Filmmaker John Pilger investigated the “new stolen generation” for his movie Utopia and discovered “In mid-1997 there were 2,785 Aboriginal children in out-of-home care across Australia. By mid-2012 there were 13,299 – almost a five-fold increase”
Have you visited Uluru or is a place on your wish-list? Do you know about Australia's history? Let us know your thoughts in the comments section below!
Have you visited Uluru or is a place on your wish-list? Do you know about Australia's history? Let us know your thoughts in the comments section below!
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