I saw a photo years ago of an ethereal shrine in the sea that looked as if it were floating.
It was Itsukushima Shrine, home to Japan's famous floating torii gate and one of the country's most iconic views.
That image stayed with me for years, until one day I found myself standing in front of it, wondering how something so familiar could feel so unreal.
Located on Miyajima Island, just off the coast of Hiroshima, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of Japan's most popular day trips. But when we were planning our Japan itinerary from Osaka, we decided not to do what most visitors do.
Deciding to stay overnight on Miyajima Island completely changed our experience.
We wanted more than a photograph. We wanted to immerse ourselves in the island and experience a side of Miyajima that many day-trippers never get to see. Spending the night at a traditional ryokan became one of the highlights of our entire Japan trip.
This guide covers everything you need to know about visiting Miyajima Island from Hiroshima, including Itsukushima Shrine, the famous floating torii gate, tide timings, and why staying overnight completely transforms the experience.
It was Itsukushima Shrine, home to Japan's famous floating torii gate and one of the country's most iconic views.
That image stayed with me for years, until one day I found myself standing in front of it, wondering how something so familiar could feel so unreal.
Located on Miyajima Island, just off the coast of Hiroshima, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of Japan's most popular day trips. But when we were planning our Japan itinerary from Osaka, we decided not to do what most visitors do.
Deciding to stay overnight on Miyajima Island completely changed our experience.
We wanted more than a photograph. We wanted to immerse ourselves in the island and experience a side of Miyajima that many day-trippers never get to see. Spending the night at a traditional ryokan became one of the highlights of our entire Japan trip.
This guide covers everything you need to know about visiting Miyajima Island from Hiroshima, including Itsukushima Shrine, the famous floating torii gate, tide timings, and why staying overnight completely transforms the experience.
First view of the floating Torii gate on Miyajima
First glimpse: Arriving at the Floating View
As we approached Miyajima Island by ferry from Hiroshima, the bright vermilion gate appeared in the distance. In Japan, this view is officially known as one of the "Three Views of Japan" (Nihon Sankei).
Disembarking the ferry, we immediately understood something: this place is busy.
Not mildly busy. Properly, unapologetically iconic.
Thousands of day-trippers streamed along the 10-minute path towards the torii gate. A steady flow of people, cameras, umbrellas, and groups
As we approached Miyajima Island by ferry from Hiroshima, the bright vermilion gate appeared in the distance. In Japan, this view is officially known as one of the "Three Views of Japan" (Nihon Sankei).
Disembarking the ferry, we immediately understood something: this place is busy.
Not mildly busy. Properly, unapologetically iconic.
Thousands of day-trippers streamed along the 10-minute path towards the torii gate. A steady flow of people, cameras, umbrellas, and groups
Step away from the crowds for unspoilt views of the floating torri gate
The Reality Check: One of the 'Three Views of Japan'
The truth is, Miyajima is not a hidden secret.
There is a reason Miyajima is officially ranked as one of the Three Views of Japan. It is one of the country's most photographed landmarks, so yes expect crowds, especially in the middle of the day when ferries are arriving constantly.
The truth is, Miyajima is not a hidden secret.
There is a reason Miyajima is officially ranked as one of the Three Views of Japan. It is one of the country's most photographed landmarks, so yes expect crowds, especially in the middle of the day when ferries are arriving constantly.
The torri gate at Itsukushima Shrine appears to float at high tide
We timed our arrival at high tide, when the gate appears to float. It was as beautiful as expected… and a bit busier than we expected.
But here is the difference: we weren’t rushing anywhere.
We had time to walk away from the main viewing point and wander towards quieter edges of the shoreline. This is where the shrine began to feel less like a postcard and more like a place again.
The tide difference
High tide = gate appears to float
Low tide = you can walk right up to it on foot
But here is the difference: we weren’t rushing anywhere.
We had time to walk away from the main viewing point and wander towards quieter edges of the shoreline. This is where the shrine began to feel less like a postcard and more like a place again.
The tide difference
High tide = gate appears to float
Low tide = you can walk right up to it on foot
Floating torri gate at sunset with a cloudy moody sky
Sunset over Miyajima
We returned just before sunset after checking into our accommodation.
As the sun dipped behind the mountains on a cloudy evening, the torii gate looked different; everything was moody. The bright daytime sun gave way to a more atmospheric view.
We returned just before sunset after checking into our accommodation.
As the sun dipped behind the mountains on a cloudy evening, the torii gate looked different; everything was moody. The bright daytime sun gave way to a more atmospheric view.
Stone torii gate at night along the pathway to the floating torii gate
After Dark: This is when the Magic Happens
After dinner, we headed back for a third viewing. This time, I really wanted to see it without the crowds.
There were still people around as the last ferries ran later than we initially expected, but compared to daytime, it was definitely more peaceful.
After dinner, we headed back for a third viewing. This time, I really wanted to see it without the crowds.
There were still people around as the last ferries ran later than we initially expected, but compared to daytime, it was definitely more peaceful.
Miyajima Island's floating torri gate lit up at night during high tide
The red gate against a black sky was something else entirely. Reflections in the water were breathtaking, the lights shimmered, and everything looked more cinematic.
Miyajima Island's floating torri gate at night looks orange against the black sky
The deep ink-black sky against the vermillion gate made the whole structure look even more suspended, as if it had been cut out of reality and placed there deliberately.
This was easily up there with one of my favourite moments of the entire trip.
This was easily up there with one of my favourite moments of the entire trip.
Empty streets on Miyajima Island after 6.00pm
The 6:00pm Reality Check
While the island becomes atmospheric after the ferries thin out, there is a trade-off: the island effectively shuts down. "Day Tripper Rush" usually peaks between 11.00am and 3.00pm.
By 6.00pm, almost every souvenir shop and cafe on Omotesando Street closes its shutters.
If you aren’t eating a pre-booked kaiseki dinner at your ryokan, be warned, restaurant choices are extremely limited, and the few that remain open fill up fast. We recommend planning your meals in advance or checking with your accommodation, as the "convenience store culture" of mainland Japan hasn't quite reached the quiet streets of Miyajima after dark - and it is for this reason that staying here overnight is even more special.
While the island becomes atmospheric after the ferries thin out, there is a trade-off: the island effectively shuts down. "Day Tripper Rush" usually peaks between 11.00am and 3.00pm.
By 6.00pm, almost every souvenir shop and cafe on Omotesando Street closes its shutters.
If you aren’t eating a pre-booked kaiseki dinner at your ryokan, be warned, restaurant choices are extremely limited, and the few that remain open fill up fast. We recommend planning your meals in advance or checking with your accommodation, as the "convenience store culture" of mainland Japan hasn't quite reached the quiet streets of Miyajima after dark - and it is for this reason that staying here overnight is even more special.
Itsukushima Shrine at low tide where you can walk on the sand
Low tide at 5.35am
At 5.35am, we went back for our fourth and final visit - low tide.
This is the moment most people miss.
At 5.35am, we went back for our fourth and final visit - low tide.
This is the moment most people miss.
At low tide, we walked up to the floating torri gate
At low tide, you can actually walk out across the sand and stand directly beneath the gate. It completely changes the experience. Instead of viewing it from afar, you’re underneath it, looking up at its scale and structure.
Standing underneath the floating torri gate looking up
Feeling the damp sand underfoot and seeing the barnacles clinging to the massive camphor wood pillars were details we never saw from the shore.
This was exactly why we stayed overnight on Miyajima Island. Day trips simply don’t allow for this all-around experience.
We were genuinely glad we booked a ryokan stay. It meant fewer people, no rush, and the chance to experience the island at its most atmospheric hours.
This was exactly why we stayed overnight on Miyajima Island. Day trips simply don’t allow for this all-around experience.
We were genuinely glad we booked a ryokan stay. It meant fewer people, no rush, and the chance to experience the island at its most atmospheric hours.
Itsukushima Shrine dates back to 593AD
About Itsukushima Shrine (Floating Torii Gate)
The floating torii gate is part of Itsukushima Shrine, but it is not the shrine itself.
The main shrine complex is built on stilts over water and dates back to 593 AD, with its current structure established in 1168 by the samurai leader Taira no Kiyomori.
It is designed to work with the sea rather than resist it, which is why the tides are not just scenic but an integral part of the shrine's design.
There is an admission fee to enter the shrine complex, but you can view the floating torii gate, stroll along the waterfront, and explore much of the surrounding area without a ticket.
The floating torii gate is part of Itsukushima Shrine, but it is not the shrine itself.
The main shrine complex is built on stilts over water and dates back to 593 AD, with its current structure established in 1168 by the samurai leader Taira no Kiyomori.
It is designed to work with the sea rather than resist it, which is why the tides are not just scenic but an integral part of the shrine's design.
There is an admission fee to enter the shrine complex, but you can view the floating torii gate, stroll along the waterfront, and explore much of the surrounding area without a ticket.
Miyajima Island also has free-roaming deer
Miyajima’s Free-roaming Deer
We had already visited Nara Park, so we thought we understood Japan’s deer situation.
Miyajima’s deer are different.
They are wilder, less performative, and far less interested in humans. No bowing. No snack expectations. They simply exist in the same space, wandering through streets or resting wherever they choose.
It felt more natural. Less interaction, more observation.
This is exactly how I want to see free-roaming deer.
We had already visited Nara Park, so we thought we understood Japan’s deer situation.
Miyajima’s deer are different.
They are wilder, less performative, and far less interested in humans. No bowing. No snack expectations. They simply exist in the same space, wandering through streets or resting wherever they choose.
It felt more natural. Less interaction, more observation.
This is exactly how I want to see free-roaming deer.
Itsukushima Shrine on the frothy top of our coffee
A Quiet and Refreshing Drink Away from the Crowds
We found a quaint tea shop tucked behind the main shrine area.
We ordered a cold drink and a coffee, which arrived in a traditional china teacup and saucer, complete with a drawing of Itsukushima Shrine on the frothy top.
It was a lovely pocket of stillness behind one of Japan's busiest landmarks, exactly what we had been looking for.
We found a quaint tea shop tucked behind the main shrine area.
We ordered a cold drink and a coffee, which arrived in a traditional china teacup and saucer, complete with a drawing of Itsukushima Shrine on the frothy top.
It was a lovely pocket of stillness behind one of Japan's busiest landmarks, exactly what we had been looking for.
A 3-beer tasting set at Miyajima Brewery
Miyajima Brewery
Miyajima Brewery serves delicious craft beer brewed on site, from IPA's to Deer Beer to fruit beer to Oyster Stout. Inside, we found a small space for two, and Sy ordered the 3-beer tasting set. We chose to visit not only because Sy enjoys beer, but also because it's something different to do on the island.
It wasn’t quite what we expected. More makeshift than a proper brewery taproom, it was part shop, part tasting counter, a little cramped and very busy.
That said, the beer flight was very good and still worth it. Not just for the beer, but because it gave us a break from the heat and the conveyor belt of crowds outside.
Miyajima Brewery serves delicious craft beer brewed on site, from IPA's to Deer Beer to fruit beer to Oyster Stout. Inside, we found a small space for two, and Sy ordered the 3-beer tasting set. We chose to visit not only because Sy enjoys beer, but also because it's something different to do on the island.
It wasn’t quite what we expected. More makeshift than a proper brewery taproom, it was part shop, part tasting counter, a little cramped and very busy.
That said, the beer flight was very good and still worth it. Not just for the beer, but because it gave us a break from the heat and the conveyor belt of crowds outside.
Traditional ryokan on Miyajima Island with tatami mat floor
Staying Overnight in a Ryokan
We had booked a stay in a traditional Japanese ryokan on Miyajima Island.
Tatami mats underfoot, futons laid out, and sliding paper doors. It felt as though we were stepping back hundreds of years into a simpler version of Japan.
This was exactly what we had hoped for. Not a modern hotel that could be anywhere in the world, but a chance to experience a small piece of traditional Japanese life.
We had booked a stay in a traditional Japanese ryokan on Miyajima Island.
Tatami mats underfoot, futons laid out, and sliding paper doors. It felt as though we were stepping back hundreds of years into a simpler version of Japan.
This was exactly what we had hoped for. Not a modern hotel that could be anywhere in the world, but a chance to experience a small piece of traditional Japanese life.
Traditional private onsen on Miyajima Island
After check-in, we went to the onsen, a traditional Japanese hot bath fed by natural mineral-rich water. There is strict etiquette to follow: all clothing must be removed, and you must shower thoroughly and wash before entering the bath.
It was certainly hotter than we were used to, and after a few minutes, we had to admit defeat and get out. But that is all part of the experience. Sitting in the steaming water after a day exploring Miyajima was yet another reason why staying overnight felt so special.
It was certainly hotter than we were used to, and after a few minutes, we had to admit defeat and get out. But that is all part of the experience. Sitting in the steaming water after a day exploring Miyajima was yet another reason why staying overnight felt so special.
A kaiseki meal is a multi-course dinner served at a ryokan
We freshened up for dinner and then sat down for a multi-course kaiseki meal. This traditional Japanese dining experience features a series of small dishes prepared using fresh, seasonal ingredients from the local area.
Course after course arrived, beautifully presented and completely different from the last, each one showcasing Japan's incredible attention to detail. It was more like edible artwork than dinner.
Staying in a traditional ryokan isn't simply a meal or somewhere to sleep for the night; it is one of the reasons our overnight stay on Miyajima became such a highlight of the trip. It was an experience to remember, and it is these moments whilst travelling that become the most memorable.
Course after course arrived, beautifully presented and completely different from the last, each one showcasing Japan's incredible attention to detail. It was more like edible artwork than dinner.
Staying in a traditional ryokan isn't simply a meal or somewhere to sleep for the night; it is one of the reasons our overnight stay on Miyajima became such a highlight of the trip. It was an experience to remember, and it is these moments whilst travelling that become the most memorable.
Traditional wooden building lit up at night
Supporting the Island (Responsible Travel)
By choosing to stay overnight rather than rushing back on the ferry, you’re contributing more directly to the island's local economy. Most day-trippers spend very little on the island itself; staying in a ryokan helps preserve the traditional hospitality and heritage of Miyajima, ensuring the island remains a living community rather than just a daytime museum.
By choosing to stay overnight rather than rushing back on the ferry, you’re contributing more directly to the island's local economy. Most day-trippers spend very little on the island itself; staying in a ryokan helps preserve the traditional hospitality and heritage of Miyajima, ensuring the island remains a living community rather than just a daytime museum.
Deer on Miyajima Island with Itsukushima's floating torii gate
Final Thought
Miyajima is not just about the floating torii gate.
It is about how it changes when the tide moves, when the crowds thin, when the ferries stop running, and when the island finally becomes quieter and less crowded.
If there is one decision that transforms Miyajima from a standard Hiroshima day trip into something unforgettable, it is staying overnight. The island changes character entirely once the last ferry leaves.
Most people see one version of it. Staying overnight lets you see four. And none of them feel the same.
Miyajima is not just about the floating torii gate.
It is about how it changes when the tide moves, when the crowds thin, when the ferries stop running, and when the island finally becomes quieter and less crowded.
If there is one decision that transforms Miyajima from a standard Hiroshima day trip into something unforgettable, it is staying overnight. The island changes character entirely once the last ferry leaves.
Most people see one version of it. Staying overnight lets you see four. And none of them feel the same.
Itsukushima Shrine floating torri gate at low tide surrounded by trees
How to travel to Miyajima from Hiroshima
Many visitors combine Miyajima with a stay in Hiroshima, which is exactly what we did when exploring the city.
The easiest route is from Hiroshima Station:
The ferry ride is short but scenic, and if you’re using a JR Pass, the JR ferry is often included.
We checked ferry timings and tide schedules in advance using the official JR Miyajima ferry timetable, so we could plan around both sunrise and high tide. If you would like more detailed transport information, this guide explains the journey from Hiroshima to Miyajima step by step.
If you are staying overnight, try to forward your large luggage from your previous hotel (Takkyubin) or leave it in a locker at Hiroshima Station. Navigating the ferry and the island’s narrow slopes with big suitcases is no fun!
Many visitors combine Miyajima with a stay in Hiroshima, which is exactly what we did when exploring the city.
The easiest route is from Hiroshima Station:
- Take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi Station
- Walk a few minutes to the ferry terminal
- Take the ferry across to Miyajima Island
The ferry ride is short but scenic, and if you’re using a JR Pass, the JR ferry is often included.
We checked ferry timings and tide schedules in advance using the official JR Miyajima ferry timetable, so we could plan around both sunrise and high tide. If you would like more detailed transport information, this guide explains the journey from Hiroshima to Miyajima step by step.
If you are staying overnight, try to forward your large luggage from your previous hotel (Takkyubin) or leave it in a locker at Hiroshima Station. Navigating the ferry and the island’s narrow slopes with big suitcases is no fun!
Visit Daisho-in Temple surrounded by mountains
Other things to do on Miyajima Island
- Take the Miyajima Ropeway cable car up Mount Misen for panoramic views
- Visit Daisho-in Temple for a quieter spiritual atmosphere
- Wander Omotesando Street for food and souvenirs
- Walk the shoreline at different tide levels
Visiting Miyajima FAQ
Is Miyajima worth visiting from Hiroshima?
Yes. Miyajima Island is one of Japan's most iconic day trips and home to the famous floating torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine.
How long should you stay?
A day trip works, but staying overnight completely changes the experience and lets you enjoy the island with far fewer people.
When is the best time to see the floating torii gate?
Visit at high tide to see the gate appear to float and low tide if you want to walk right up to it.
Is Miyajima crowded?
Yes, especially during the day when ferries bring in thousands of visitors. Staying overnight is the best way to experience a quieter side of the island.
Can you see the gate at night?
Yes. The floating torii gate is illuminated after dark and significantly quieter than during the day.
Is Miyajima worth visiting from Hiroshima?
Yes. Miyajima Island is one of Japan's most iconic day trips and home to the famous floating torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine.
How long should you stay?
A day trip works, but staying overnight completely changes the experience and lets you enjoy the island with far fewer people.
When is the best time to see the floating torii gate?
Visit at high tide to see the gate appear to float and low tide if you want to walk right up to it.
Is Miyajima crowded?
Yes, especially during the day when ferries bring in thousands of visitors. Staying overnight is the best way to experience a quieter side of the island.
Can you see the gate at night?
Yes. The floating torii gate is illuminated after dark and significantly quieter than during the day.
